[Guest]

I am the PROUD owner of an M9A1 and S9. I bought the M9A1 used with some custom "modifications" and the S9 new from Davidson's.

Many thanks to the members of this board and over at GT for their insightful postings. Without all the informative posts, I would not have run out to purchase the S9 so quickly. The detailed slide disassembly and cleaning were helpful posts.

I have a technical question. When dry firing the S9 I have found it not to reset sometimes. This has only happened once with the M9A1. If I do not rack the slide all the way the trigger does not seem to reset always. This has not happened when firing, which is good because I would consider it a major problem. Here is the problem:

After dry firing with a standard full pull length, I hold the trigger to the rear and rack the slide only about an inch/1.5. I allow the trigger to click as I release it under pressure. When the problem occurs the trigger only clunks to the rear and a firing pin slap is not heard. The trigger just "crumbles" without firing. If I release the trigger fully, the pistol will cock and a normal firing pin slap is heard. To restate: when the trigger "crumbles" on reset, I must release it fully for it to fire, I do not need to rack the slide.

Any ideas? I am mildly concerned because I have had 0 FTF at the range, yet. I appreciate any response. Thanks again for all your help in the past.

 

[uncle_walty]

I suspect you're not releasing the trigger enough to reset. The next time you have this problem try releasing the trigger a little bit further without releasing it all the way to see if you can get it to reset. There is some play in the trigger group so the trigger may not reset at exactly the same point every time.

I have an M9, M357 Sig and S9. All 3 triggers have their own characteristics. The M9 will sometimes break crisp and clean and sometimes will have some creep before it breaks. The S9 almost always has some creep before it breaks. The M357 doesn't break as cleanly as the M9. All 3 trigger pull weight are slightly different and vary some what depending on if I get a clean break or creepy one. I've tried polishing, lubricating, cleaning, not lubricating, tweeking but haven't figured out what the cause is. I wish someone with real factory or practical experience on how the Steyr M action works would post some info.

 

[WorldPax]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I don't hold the trigger back when I reset it after a dry-fire. Fire, release trigger, short-rack slide, and it's done.

 

[yugo308guy]

Worldpax, to fully take advantage of the very short reset of the Steyr, similar to the Glock, if you hold the trigger back while you rack the slide for your second dryfire, you do not need to release the trigger to the furthest foward position to reset, it has a short reset position only about 1/8in forward of the rearmost position. did that make sense?

That said, Tackdriver, I have the exact same "problem" with my trigger reset. When it does not reset, it almost feels like it has 2 positions going forward. When you hit the short reset position, then pull, it feels like it binds up and won't release the striker. Then, when you release it fully, it will reset normally, then you can pull the full length and it will release the striker. I agree that it is not a significant "problem", as I have over 1500 rounds thru mine with no malfunctions at all. One thing I think I have figured out, but I'm not positive, make sure that you have your trigger pulled all the way to the rear while you rack your slide. I don't believe i have experienced this problem when I really think about keeping the trigger to the rear. Try this a feww hundred times and let me know if it happens again! :lol:

 

[Guest]

A few hundred times later...

I went to the range today and fired 300rds without a problem. I came home and detailed the frame/firing control group "cradle" out of the frame. I cleaned out some factory gunk and gold shavings from the WWB ammo I shot. After detailing and re-lubricating I tried dryfiring. This time is was really bad. A few times I could not get it to reset at all. I opened the frame up again and noticed a few pieces of carbon sludge in the sear (I think) area. After assembling the pistol again, I cannot make it not reset. In fact, the pull is crisper and very slightly less in weight than before. I am not sure if it was the small (let me emphasize SMALL) amout of carbon along the sear. Everything is great now. Maybe the factory grease turned sludge contributed to this. I used cotton cloth and q-tips soaked in Shooters Choice to degrease and clean. Maybe I should use a pressurized cleaner such as gun scrubber to get every bit of gunk out. But I am concerned.

If such a small amout of powder residue can make this sort of difference, will the pisol be reliable enough for carry? After one shot the mechanism will be dirty again. The real test is in shooting. If there is a reset failure at the range I will have reason for concern.

Thanks to yugo308guy for his description of using the reset. The reset is crutial during fast follow-up shooting as is focus on the front sight. Both of these features in the Steyr make it an ideal pistol.

 

[madecov]

Intead of gun scrubber get a large can of NON chlorinated brake parts cleaner. I buy Prestone. You get 3x the amount at half the price.

I hate to say it but Wal-mart usually has it for about $3.00 can.

Works great. Just use the tube to really blast the action.

 

[alagator]

Let me ask a newbie question--Can you use the gun scrubber or brake cleaner without taking the action out of the stock? If so, how do you hold it so the crud comes out instead of just moving around?

 

[Guest]

I suppose you could use the scrubber on the trigger assembly while still in the frame. The problem is, the cleaner will remove all moisture from whatever it touches. I used gun scrubber on a glock and it turned the black frame an ashy/dandruff white. With some oil/handling the black frame became black again. I just don't think it is a good idea for the plastic. Someone else told me that these cleaners are harsh on the small metal parts as well. I plan on re-lubing well anyway and worry more about the crud in the action causing damage than the chemical "drying out" the metal. Although I don't plan on detail cleaning this way more than 4times a year/every 1500 rds whichever comes first.

 

[theFiasco]

TackDriver,

It seems like once the gunk is removed the action works very well for a long time. I've had a few problems with the M9 and after each problem was fixed, it stayed fixed.

tF

 

[madecov]

When I had a Glock before the M40 I used brake parts cleaner for years.

never had a problem with the frame or metal.
I've been using brake cleaner for years without ill effects. I use it everytime I clean my guns, no problems at all. I do remove soft plastic parts like grips. I don't always detail strip before use. When I detail strip I use simple green and an old toothbrush.

 

[Guest]

The trigger will always reset when the slide is racked fully and allowed to "slam home". It is only when I ride the slide or short rack it that it fails to reset using the hold and short reset. I can always pull the trigger out to have it reset.

The trigger will always reset if my finger is not holding it rearward.