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Trigger job

5790 Views 24 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  aubie515
I stumbled upon your sight and all i can say is wow! I wish I knew about this wealth of information months ago!

Having saud that, I was hoping to find some information about reducing and smoothing the trigger pull. I have the `5lb on right now, i would like it at about 3-4. I am quite mechanically inclined, and can strip it down pretty well right now. (Havent attempted the action yet :? ). Does anyone know of a good way to go about this without going to a professional?

Thank You,
-RC
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There are only two ways to improve the already good trigger on the Steyr M series. First is to polish all the contact surfaces and the second is to shoot it alot. The design does not lend itself to modification and there are not enough of them out there to make an attractive market for custom gunsmiths.
What IDPASteyr said, buff the trigger bar to a nice shine. Also buff the sear and firing pin contact points a little. You'll notice the pull get a lot smoother after that. I don't think you'd be able to make it any lighter, but if you figure out a way, be sure to let us know.
You can be sure I will look into it. Thanks Guys.
Pictures would be nice to point out exactly what parts needs polished. For the ones who might be challenged in the gunsmithing department.

Just my thoughts.

Cheers,

WPM
I've always thought that the trigger isnt good but when in the range... its just doing fine. I've some flicking when dry firing and was concern that I may not be able to place the shots on the target when on the range but that was not the case. Shot placements are just perfect. :wink:
yeah. I just like mine super smooth :wink:
Mine shoots just fine, but I'm a tinkerer too. Cant get me to leave anything alone. lol
Pics on Polishing

I too would like to see where to polish. My M40 has an obnoxious bit of creep (kind of feels like plastic on plastic). This is noticeable when squeezing off shots, but not in fast shooting. Since I do more informal target shooting than action shooting, I'd like to remove this creep.

Ben
I would try cleaning the sear catch and the firing pin catch really well, it seemed to help my pull quite a bit, but Im not going to polish anything unless it is still there after 3-5k rounds. Ive only got about 500 in it now. Just barely broken in :p
G
Time and use will smooth the trigger on ANY gun, especialy DA triggers.
Removing any factory preservative gunk wil also stop attracting rsidue.
the best place to polish is the firing pin guide rail. there is a weight that slides down this guide rail as the trigger is depressed. a burr on this weight can scratch the guide rail. when this happens you will feel a creeping or notchyness.

while it's apart polish the weight as well to remove any burrs and smooth its sliding down the guide rail.

there are three more tutorials that will probably be up shortly.

one of them covers a more thorough trigger tune up.
I grew impatient with the creep in my trigger, so I disassembled, cleaned out the subgroup with brake cleaner, very lightly polished triggerbar contact areas with a plain Dremel buffing wheel (no compound used), and lubed the same areas with a tiny bit of TRW-21 synthetic grease. The creep is now almost completely gone, but a tiny bit remains that is nearly imperceptible to me.

I am still lookin forward to the guide for trigger improvement.

Ben
I definitely need to peruse these forums more often! Looking forward also to the tips on trigger smoothing. A big thanks to all that participate and give so much great advice!
-clc
Trigger tune up...

Bigtaco, I would like to thank you for your tutorials. They have been a huge help to me. I have not had a chance to polish the fireing pin and weight yet, as I cannot seem to track down 1000 gritt paper after I get off work so I will have to wait until next week, but I did pull out spring number 13, and changed the angle from around 130 to 90 deg. Wow, the trigger pull is so smooth now, it's amazing. I also had a few burs on part number 18, just a little leftovers from the molding, and once that was smooth out, the pre-break no longer has that really anoying "scratchy" feeling. Once again, thank you.

Sean
that spring is the only part i really recommend modifying and i just stumled onto it.

i was talking with the ex-steyr repair guy apart ways to fix my trigger reset problem. i thought that making that spring lighter would do the trick. he doubted that it would help the trigger reset but assured me that it would improve the trigger pull.

that's all i needed!! i bent one, tried it out, loved it. so i bent the spring on my other steyr too. it's night and day to me.

if your trigger is already silky smooth, you may not need to polish the firing pin guide rail/ weight. couldn't hurt though. :wink:

i haven't seen a single person post or pm me about trouble getting it apart or together again. which left me wondering if anyone was trying this stuff.

i'm glad you tried it, happy you had success, and downright ecstatic that you let me know how it went!!!

good shooting.
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bigtaco said:
if your trigger is already silky smooth, you may not need to polish the firing pin guide rail/ weight. couldn't hurt though. :wink:

i haven't seen a single person post or pm me about trouble getting it apart or together again. which left me wondering if anyone was trying this stuff.

i'm glad you tried it, happy you had success, and downright ecstatic that you let me know how it went!!!
The trigger is amazing. I cannot believe how smooth it is. I will take your advice and leave the firing pin guide rail/weight alone for right now, becuase I am really picky, and I cannot find ANY "gritt" in the pull. Like I said, removeing the burs from the molding of the safty in the trigger, really, really helped the gritt to be removed from the pull. And the the spring just has an amazing breaking point to it now, I will take it out on thursday and fire a few hundred rounds through it and let you know how it feels!
sheesh, I must've been sleeping all this time. Didnt even know you posted a guide BigTaco. Just read it, will try it this week. Excellent writeup!
G
+1 on what he mentions in the tutorial about not messing w/ spring #19.

I was sitting on the couch watching some dvds and taking the M40 apart and blowing out the nooks w/ compressed air when a 60# mutt jumped in my lap as I was doing the trigger. Spring 19 is now sprung and no way to get it back in original shape.
What was a perfect functioning gun now fails to reset about 10% of the time dry firing, and requires me to come much further off the trigger than I used to when it does work.

I just got off the phone w/ steyr about parts, see seperate thread under industry info.
G
careful tweaking! and STICKY

I see sticky on AK-47, 1911 forum and elsewhere! Be careful with the tweaking, I can't leave anything alone either, have a new sear spring, hammer and recoil spring on order at Brownell's for my 1911...too much tweaking! Tweaking is the spice of life, how we find our boundaries, how we push our limits! Tweak and more tweak! Unfortunately I also had to order a new stock hammer spring for my SP101, the gun I CCW, because when I fired it today, 2 of 5 didn't go! Light primer hits suck. Back to the stock hammer spring for reliable ignition.

That being said, My defensive pistols (RIA mid size, Steyer ((wife's)) S-9) are to be left alone, both for function and liability. Explain to the prosecutor during the trial why your pistol's trigger was "modified to make it more deadly".

Wife's brand new S-9 fed, fired, ejected 100 rds WWB, no problems at all. Only other auto I've had that's done that is my RIA. Love this gun! Thinking of trading GP100 in on a .40 for myself. love the sights, they align themselves like front and rear peep sights on a rifle. There's definately something about the eye that centers like shapes. Circles or parallel lines, doesn't matter. Heine figure 8's work the same eway I think.

So, smoothing OK, lightening begs a prosecutor in a righteous shooting to persecure,

Your is Steyr admiration,

Ernest
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