SHOOTING IN LOW LIGHT

Discussion in 'Tactics and Training' started by watchmaker, Aug 9, 2006.

  1. watchmaker

    watchmaker Guest

    49
    0
    0
    In a previous post, I talked about the use of the Harries technique and its suitability for use with the big Maglite 2 or 3 D and others similar flashlights.
    See this link:
    http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179342

    I am going to explain how to employ the other useful techniques of using a flashlight with a pistol, especially useful for those flashlights that have a tactical switch.

    As many of the members already have a Surefire of two or three batteries with a tactical switch or a similar one of another brand, going from 60 to 200 lumens, I am going to explain the two most popular techniques. One is the Harries which I have already explained in the previous post in using with my BOREALIS 1050 lumens light.

    Michael Harries invented this position and it is considered one of the first positions ever that coordinates the use of the flashlight using the two hands.
    For using with tactical switch lights (with a switch in the tail), the flashlight is grasped with the left hand around the body and the thumb will activate the switch.
    The back of the hands are pressed together and maintain an isometric tension to help control the recoil of the gun. Your wrists will be crossed and the light will be parallel or close to the muzzle of the gun.

    THE HARRIES TECHNIQUE

    [​IMG]

    The Roger-Surefire
    Holster maker, ex FBI agent, and competition shooter Bill Rogers teamed up with Surefire to adapt a rubber grommet or washer to the Surefire 6 Z (now available in most combat models of Surefire and copied by others light makers).
    The position is also called the cigar position, as you grasp the body of the flashlight like a cigar, with the index and middle finger. The tail cap is resting on the fleshy part below your thumb and a little pressure back on the rubber ring will activate the light (the tail cap button resting in that part below your thumb will switch the light on).
    That position will let you grasp the hand shooting the pistol with three fingers of the left hand, and it is the only position that let you use a two-handed grip.

    THE ROGERS-SUREFIRE GRIP

    [​IMG]

    The Chapman technique
    Ray Chapman was the first IPSC world champion. He invented his position for use with the Kel-Lites of the 1970’s (probably the first high quality Police Flashlight) that have a sliding switch on top of the barrel. It is still a great position to use for those that don’t want to cross the wrists as in the Harries position when using a big flashlight.
    It is well suited for the Maglites and for the modification of the Maglite like my own BOREALIS 1050 lumens.

    You just grasp the flashlight as you usually do, with your thumb in the switch and your fingers circling the barrel and you bring it up to index your fingernails with the fingernails of the shooting hand.

    THE CHAPMAN GRIP

    [​IMG]


    And for last a very useful technique called the REVERSE HARRIES that my friend Middlebrook show me recently.

    [​IMG]


    In my other post I have mentioned the old FBI technique which is to separate the flashlight high and away from you in order to confuse you opponent about your position.
    Another technique that doesn’t offer any support to the shooting hand but it can be very useful when using a pistol with lousy sights (original 1911, Luger, etc) is the one I used more than 40 years ago when I started combat shooting.
    It indexes the light on top of my head, letting the light fall on a line from the sights to the target. Even the minuscule back up .380 or the Baby Browning sights gets illuminated using this ridiculous position.

    In closing, I would like to say that in my opinion lights with less than 60 lumens are out of the new low light fighting techniques.
    For my belt light I will prefer to have a minimum of 200 lumens, using the Surefire C-3 and the P-91 lamp as my favorite.
    But if I have to clear a room I prefer a light with more power. My Surefire M-6 with the 500 lumens lamp will do, but I prefer even more lumens to really blind, disorient, and roast my opponent. That is when I use the BOREALIS 1050 lumens light.

    I want to show you some pictures that illustrate the amount of lumens you are putting out when using a Surefire Centurion 2 with the 60 lumen lamp, the Surefire M-6 with the 500 lumens, and the BOREALIS 1050 lumens.

    THE SUREFIRE CENTURION C-2 (65 LUMENS)

    [​IMG]

    THE SUREFIRE M-6 500 LUMENS)

    [​IMG]

    THE BOREALIS 1050 LUMENS

    [​IMG]

    BEST REGARDS
    watchmaker
    a.k.a.
    black bear
     
  2. MrApathy

    MrApathy Active Member

    1,085
    5
    38

  3. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

    5,073
    13
    0
    Great stuff, as usual. Keep up the good work - we all appreciate it!!! :D
     
  4. jcaddigan

    jcaddigan Guest

    1
    0
    0
    I went through a combat shooting class recently and as the evening fell upon us, I did find the THE ROGERS-SUREFIRE GRIP to be an excellent method fow low-light, no-light shooting. It took a little to get used to but once used to it, it stuck. I did notice the difference between a lower light (under 200 lumens) and the 300 lumens Surefire light I used.

    Unrelated question, what is the best tactical holster for the Steyr M40? In this combat shooting course, my "human reaction time", while not bad, was much worse than it should have been as I was using a nylon-type holster. I have checked out Safariland and a few other tactical holster manufacturers, and none mention the Steyr M40 at all.

    Many thanks!

    JC
     
  5. SELFDEFENSE

    SELFDEFENSE Premium Member

    3,817
    31
    48
    My preference is for the FBI during initial identification, and transition to the Rogers-Surefire cigar if I ever got into a shooting phase.
     
  6. IlovemyM9

    IlovemyM9 New Member

    17
    0
    1
    Great post watchmaker!

    I just started defensive shooting. I think the Harris technique is most suitable for me. It is simple. What do you think? Is heard using the Roger technique might bring up the danger of accidental discharging. Especially when the shooter did not train this extensively.
    I eighter go for a P6 Defender or P6 Combat Light both with P61 bulb - but first I have to know what technique I'm starting to practice.

    What about starting a poll here on what techniques are used? Whould be interesting to know also how many rely on a weapon mounted light.
     
  7. Surefire does a pretty cool training course through Blackwater for tactical light use.

    There is a video over at youtube.com that shows part of it. Interesting stuff.