[Guest]

Does the Steyr M series have a second-strike/DA capability? Thanks ind advance.

 

[BurningDog]

no

 

[Guest]

+1

Neither does Glock, XD, Para LDA....

THe only light DA only pistol that has second strike/multi strike is SIG DAK. Second reset is 6.5# and thereafter is 8.5#.

 

[RangerM9]

24/7

Pretty sure the Taurus 24/7 has second strike ability. Actually not a bad pull on the one i looked at over the weekend....been considering that for a .45 12+1 capacity is nice.

Greg

 

[Guest]

That 24/7 is a hugh pistol, don't you think...I always thought it was smaller from all the pictures in ads and magazines. I think 24/7 is a traditional DAO , which is capable of multistrike.

Many of the non traditional striker fired, like the glock, Walther P99 and its S&W variant, xd, steyr or the Light DA only, ala Para LDA, P2000, are not second strike capable. With the light main spring and hard primers, some rounds do not go off and you have to recycle the a fresh round to reset the action.

The DAK is a very light and smooth long trigger pull, kinda like a fine tuned revolver action, When a DAK slide is cycled, the action/hammer is set in second reset point, kinda like its on half cock and your first shot is from this half cock position. If this first shot didn't go off, the hammer is now fully rested forward and the action is on first reset point which is a heavier pull at 8.5#. As this point on, you can pull the trigger as many time as needed for it to fire the problematic round. once its fire, the slide cycled and the action is again on reset pt 2 and again its 6.5 #.

I hope this is not too confusing, seeing the DAK in person better explains the difference in it compare to a traditional DAO.

 

[RangerM9]

true...

true...the 24/7 is not a light pistol by any means....

my bad, i hadn't noticed you were thinking only of the lighter guns.

of the DAO variety...i still think it had a pretty good trigger..not like the S&W Sigmas...or the Kel-tec triggers....wow...those seem like they will tire out a finger in no time.

no offense to any kel-tec owners...or Sigma owners....they are just not for me i guess....

 

[madecov]

Walther P99 with the AS (anti stress) trigger. It is a striker fired true double action/single action system.

 

[MrApathy]

..

 

[Guest]

I just pickup my M9 and I put about 100 rds to it. I have no opnion of the trigger yet, but I feel the weight changes a bit from time to time, even sound impossible. What do you all think? Having anyone done a trigger job on the Steyr yet.

I like the travel but would want to smooth and lighten it abit. I haven't study the action of the M series yet but is this possible. Is there a lighter disconnector available?

Thanks for any input...

 

[Guest]

I just pickup my M9 and I put about 100 rds to it. I have no opnion of the trigger yet, but I feel the weight changes a bit from time to time, even sound impossible. What do you all think? Having anyone done a trigger job on the Steyr yet.

I like the travel but would want to smooth and lighten it abit. I haven't study the action of the M series yet but is this possible. Is there a lighter disconnector available?

Thanks for any input...

If you have not heard about it yet, the current M/S series of Steyr pistols have been sitting in potentially non-airconditioned warehouses for up to a few years and the factory lubricants may have turned to rubbery sludge. My S9 was bought new less than 2 months ago and was made in 2001.

This is the cause of many erratic extractor issues, and in my case I found this extended to affecting the trigger negatively. When I first got the gun the extraction pattern was all over the place (sending 2 casings into my forehead) and the trigger had noticebly more creep after the first 1,000 rounds - seemingly getting worse instead of better.

Using the tutorials that are either listed here or linked to from here, you should be able to easily disassemble the extractor and remove the trigger group from the frame to properly clean them.

I removed the extractor and found some sticky residue underneath the extractor on the frame slot. After cleaning this out and lightly lubing the extractor plunger and pin with a Q-tip and Tetra gun grease, I have not had a shell in the face and the ejection pattern is much improved.

I did the same thing in removing the trigger group from the frame and found a similar residue underneath the trigger bar where it fits into the stainless-looking trigger mechanism. It was mixed in with the brass chips from the first 1,000 rounds I fired through it. I cleaned this out thoroughly with Hoppes #9 solvent on a patch and a compressed air can. Afterwards I lubed this area with a Q-Tip and Tetra gun grease and noticed a SIGNIFICANT improvement in the trigger - no more creep and a little lighter crisp break.

I too would like to lighten the pull by at least a pound. It seems to be around the 5.5-7.0 pound range, although it has a good takeup and clean break after my cleaning. I hope as Steyrs become a bit more popular there will be some aftermarket support, especially like what Glocks receive for their terrible triggers.

Good luck!

Jeff

 

[Guest]

I just pickup my M9 and I put about 100 rds to it. I have no opnion of the trigger yet, but I feel the weight changes a bit from time to time, even sound impossible. What do you all think? Having anyone done a trigger job on the Steyr yet.

I like the travel but would want to smooth and lighten it abit. I haven't study the action of the M series yet but is this possible. Is there a lighter disconnector available?

Thanks for any input...

If you have not heard about it yet, the current M/S series of Steyr pistols have been sitting in potentially non-airconditioned warehouses for up to a few years and the factory lubricants may have turned to rubbery sludge. My S9 was bought new less than 2 months ago and was made in 2001.

This is the cause of many erratic extractor issues, and in my case I found this extended to affecting the trigger negatively. When I first got the gun the extraction pattern was all over the place (sending 2 casings into my forehead) and the trigger had noticebly more creep after the first 1,000 rounds - seemingly getting worse instead of better.

Using the tutorials that are either listed here or linked to from here, you should be able to easily disassemble the extractor and remove the trigger group from the frame to properly clean them.

I removed the extractor and found some sticky residue underneath the extractor on the frame slot. After cleaning this out and lightly lubing the extractor plunger and pin with a Q-tip and Tetra gun grease, I have not had a shell in the face and the ejection pattern is much improved.

I did the same thing in removing the trigger group from the frame and found a similar residue underneath the trigger bar where it fits into the stainless-looking trigger mechanism. It was mixed in with the brass chips from the first 1,000 rounds I fired through it. I cleaned this out thoroughly with Hoppes #9 solvent on a patch and a compressed air can. Afterwards I lubed this area with a Q-Tip and Tetra gun grease and noticed a SIGNIFICANT improvement in the trigger - no more creep and a little lighter crisp break.

I too would like to lighten the pull by at least a pound. It seems to be around the 5.5-7.0 pound range, although it has a good takeup and clean break after my cleaning. I hope as Steyrs become a bit more popular there will be some aftermarket support, especially like what Glocks receive for their terrible triggers.

Good luck!

Jeff

+1
My S9 actually took 2 DEEP cleanings on the extractor to get any reliability out of it. The first time I took it to the range after cleaning it for the first time it was better but still erratic ejection pattern and still was getting FTE's

 

[Guest]

I have done the extractor cleaning but didn't know there a trigger cleaning as well. The extraction was very good first time out but you know my feeling about the trigger.

Is it a pain to take the inner out of the receiver. I saw the schematic and I would imagine its has quite a few pieces to it.

 

[Deluxe247]

I have done the extractor cleaning but didn't know there a trigger cleaning as well. The extraction was very good first time out but you know my feeling about the trigger.

Is it a pain to take the inner out of the receiver. I saw the schematic and I would imagine its has quite a few pieces to it.

It's actually quite easy. The tutorial for removing the trigger group is here: Cheggit

-D

 

[Guest]

Yes, I took it apart today, three times to be exact...scrubbed it down real well and oil the heck out of it with some TW25B oil. I did find the trigger bar kinda brownish, maybe the old oil, maybe a bit oxidation, not to the point of rust.

Some of the blue parts have are plummed, ala HK P7'ish.