recommendation for new steyr's and owners

Discussion in 'Maintenance / Tweaks / Technical Difficulties / So' started by MrApathy, Nov 17, 2006.

  1. MrApathy

    MrApathy Active Member

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    with no ammo or magazine.

    pull the slide back and fourth repeatedly. do this till the action
    smooths out. this can cut down on the amount of ammo
    required for breakin. if it feels grity check the rails for dirt.
    polishing the rails may improve feel.

    dont just pull the slide back and let it go, keep your hand on the slide and frame at all times.

    dont let the slide slam free this can cause peening on the
    barrel,lockup and takedown pin. ammo in the gun can lessen peening. designed to operate with ammo but for this easier to use no ammo and not let the slide fly.

    cleaning the rails after this is good idea.

    dry firing will help work the various springs snap caps have not been needed with my 4 original M series and no ill effects have been seen.

    I did this to my second set of M40 and M9 before I took them out to shoot and they were flawless unlike my first set which had some minor issues due to magazine spring and main spring failure to battery, tough to rack the slide and ejecting a case manually was tough as hell.

    loading and unloading magazines can help with magazine spring. loading 2 less rounds may prevent trouble also with new mags.

    the alternative is shooting ammo which can be more costly than the above. the above will reduce breakin period.

    found out by other steyrclub members
    extraction issues may want to try using a screw driver and working the extractor. 1911 plunger spring can be used to help get rid of extraction issues by putting inside the extractor spring.

    top of the chamber in the barrel may need to be relieved by a smith it could have burrs which prevents smooth ejection of the cartridge.
    some chambers may be too tight for the cartridge after firing and expansion and need to be enlarged a few .001's take to smith or send to steyr sending to steyr the recommended method.

    getting a custom guide rod and a light spring can be helpfull in reducing recoil and enhancing ejection though may bring about peening on the frame.
     
  2. randomtard

    randomtard Guest

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    Can you elaborate on the above procedure? I'm not sure how to approach.

    Thanks for the tips. I can pick up my M40-A1 on Thursday, can't wait!
     

  3. MrApathy

    MrApathy Active Member

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  4. randomtard

    randomtard Guest

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    The part I quoted in my previous reply? :D
     
  5. SELFDEFENSE

    SELFDEFENSE Premium Member

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    " MrApathy wrote:
    which part?



    The part I quoted in my previous reply? "
    ------------------------------------------------------
    The FTE problem some have had which appears to be remedied with the use of a 1911 plunger spring.
    If you enter FTE as the keyword in the Search function you will get a load of discussion on this problem and its remedy.
     
  6. 0311SteyrLuver

    0311SteyrLuver New Member

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    So i have read a lot on the custom guide rod thing.... where and how would be awesome!
     
  7. MACHINgunIST

    MACHINgunIST Guest

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    I've done the "work the action by hand " break in technique for decades and it works. Sometimes I'll lap the rails a bit. I also tune my pistols BEFORE shooting them....but the basic approach you set forth is perfectly adequate....and practical. One thing I highly recommend is a little GREASE on the rails and slide grooves during break in....it can be a little messy........but it slicks up mating surfaces and it STICKS. If I recall corrrectly, shooter and writer Ross Seyfried recommends grease on the rails....it has always worked well for me.
     
  8. Netfotoj

    Netfotoj Premium Member

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    Slide Glide Lite! A little dab'll do ya!

    One little tub will last you forever, or longer than I'm liable to live anyway. :mrgreen: