Steyr Club Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

1,085 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a thread dedicated hopefully to the research and sharing of info on parts specifications and suitable metals to build replacement parts.

limited to purchasers of Steyr Pistols as law permits fair use.

html Page

the most difficult and most expensive part though shouldnt be the polymer frame. unless members pool together to get replacements frames made be unlikely any are available. which is misfortunate something could be produced twisting the M and MA1 polymer frames to something better. but having a look at the patent files
be difficult.

slide and frame fairly difficult due to the shape of the rails. not so much the frame but the slide due to railing.

small parts are easy though trigger is an issue.

mostly theory but hopefully one that draws conversation.

any suggestions on metal for various parts? metal hardness and condition?

may bee good idea to see if wolf or ismi can do springs. ismi seems to do custom work.

suitable metals would be
Stainless Steel
303-free machining
316-very tough
416-similar to 316 but easier to machine, heat treatable.

Alloy Steel

multifunction unit ie metal frame
5" long x 1 1/4" wide x 1 1/4" tall

Trigger pin-#22- .15"/4mm
ejector/sear safety roll pin-#9-.10"/2.5mm-.23"/6mm
trigger safety pin #21
safety pin-#29-.08"/2mm-.47"/12mm
needs double checking taken with cheap chinese centech

for pins it looks like steyr used good quality hardened drill rod.
alloy steels are heat treatable. stainless doesnt not always take to heat treating but can work harden meaning as tooling hits it,it gets harder which makes it difficult to machine but very tough.

more info at on metals at

mill,lathe and cncmill good tools to have. may find them at machine shops and university and community colleges. recommend continuing education classes in machining good to learn and fun.

anybody have a angle measuring tool handy what angle are the slide rails and frame rails cut at? anybody have much experience with dovetail cutters?

for trigger Aluminum 6061-T6 or 7075 could be used to machine a new one

of coarse the pins are fairly simple.
other simple parts are ejector and sear safety.
ejector 1.5mm thick
sear safety?
while ejector and sear safety are simple heat treatment is crucial for the ejector if not also the sear safety.

edit: It would be much preferred not to do this but parts supply and distribution of what parts were available has been lousy. myself and others would rather see that than do this. just in case steyr is reading please take notice. some may even consider buying the parts or paying a service subscription fee. otherwise give a man a tool and he can work for a day. teach a man how to build tools and he can work for a lifetime. though most people are using these tools to punch paper and collect dust. rather it be functional while collecting dust not broke into obsoletion.

a metal supplier in the US that supplies metal measured in metric
drill rod page for pins.
metric roll pins ... sp?n_id=50
for spring roll pins for part #9
slotted pin may work as a replacement

needing people to scour the internet or phonebook for metal sources. own a steyr want to keep it working you can help by adding to this thread

good smith or machinist should be able to take piece of stock metal and make you a replacement part. some parts are easier than others

Premium Member
431 Posts
Hey There All

Thanks for the JPG ! I'll use it tonight, but presently, I have saved it as my laptop's desktop screen. It's not as menacing as my prior picture of me at the range.

Take Care,


1,791 Posts
i get my metal at the local metal supermarkets store. i've never bought a quantity big enough to warrant finding a lower pound rate.

to me the convenience of being able to buy one foot of this and three feet of that is the determining factor. they have a website,

i would say 6061 for the trigger and trigger safety. black anodize after a tumbler would look great. strength not an issue. making a trigger (and trigger safety) is a set up that would take a while to get going, but could be done. winding the spring kinda gets me. i know i could spend a week and wind one that would work, i'm just not sure i could wind a whole bunch of them efficiently. but maybe with a good jig ...

be tempted to use 303 for the trigger bar. if you use a hot roll steel, you lose the corrosion resistance inherent in the tennifer. 303 gets it back.

to me the hardest part to machine, which would also be the sexiest, would be the slide cap. maybe not so bad with a good angle vise on a cnc mill, but to trying to set up a jig that would cut that readily on a manual machine would be pretty intense. angled vise on an x/y table on a rotary table. you'd spend all day jigging up.

for the little pins, i would use an annealed drill rod. cut the part, and heat treat it after machining. sounds simple but when heat treating at home, it can be difficult to determine heating times, quench rates, and keep consistent.

could also try starting out with a hardened/ ground dowel pin and remove material by a tool post grinder. i don't want to get grinding dust on MY ways but... could be done.

doevtail cutters are fun!!!! til you start throwing the teeth all over the room. slow speeds and feeds keep cutters intact, like any cutter. obviously want to do the hogging portion with a cheapy cutter and save just the dovetail cut for the dovetail cutter.

to me, with a manual machine, the only problem with making a slide is keeping everything indicated in when changing setups. you'll have to drill the two holes at the muzzle end of the slide in one set up. don't forget the guide rod land on the INSIDE of the slide that is larger than the protrusion hole through which the guide rod exits.

then cut away the internal/ external areas. then drill for the firing pin. cutting the dovetails in the slide doesn't scare me. cutting the slot for the slide cap kinda does. and drilling the angled hole for the extractor terrifies me. not because i couldn't drill a hole at the correct angle, but because it would be possible to have a fully functioning unit with extraction trouble that isn't even due to the hole being here or there.

i would go 303 for this. but it would be HEAVY. be nice to have an engineer with a stress analysis type program let you know just how much material you could safely remove in the interest of weight savings.

the sub-frame could only be "feasibly" produced by casting. to start with a slug and drill out access holes and plunge cutters in and clean up the corners with a broaching jig... all the angles... no way... not me.

only other way i could conceive, and this is well into the realm of artwork, is if someone machined the four sides of the box, and welded them together with the most beautiful tig weld you've ever seen, holding the inside dimensions to +/- .002, and then carefully cleaned up the outside via grinding. not me... shrinkage, twisting, pre-heating the welds...


for the machinists with lots of idle hands and idle tools... get to it.

for those who may ultimately end up buying some of these parts, keep in mind that a lot of this stuff is pretty tricky. it's very low volume, and it's very steyr specific.

what would be funny is if steyr left us high and dry and we cumulatively produced their pistols!!!

i can't believe that steyr could monitor a board where people are swapping ideas about how to produce THEIR product, without doing everything in their power to meet demand.

steyr better watch out or somebody here... oh i don't know... MIGHT throw together a .45acp slide/barrel conversion complete with 1911 magazine sleeves.

give us s40-a1's NOW, but please... keep the light rail.

Premium Member
1,664 Posts
Dayam 8-O

You guys are intense!

Wulf <-- Can drill a hole inna front sight, if that helps. :roll:
1 - 4 of 4 Posts