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New Steyr Owner with Questions before Buying Another

2427 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  elweed004
My brother bought a Steyr M40 back in November of 2001. I went out with him one time shortly after his purchase and shot the gun and loved it. I actually just started looking into buying a gun recently and ended up buying his M40. He told me that he had put less than 50 rounds through it. I have put about 100-150 rounds through it since I bought it a couple months ago. I absolutely love the feel of the gun and how it performs, but I hate the fact that it does not have the integrated rail and that you have to buy that seperately for $99 from Steyr.

That being the case, I was thinking about selling the gun and picking up one of the later generation Steyrs with the integrated rail in .40 S&W as well as picking up the Steyr 9mm for my wife as she loves the feel of my Steyr, but not the recoil.

Now to the question. I have seen some pictures of M series and S series Steyrs that have the safety in front of the trigger like my M40 does and I have also seen pictures where they do not have the safety in front of the trigger. I prefer having the safety like I have on my M40 now, so I was wondering if there is a way of knowing when purchasing a Steyr online, if it does or does not have the safety in front of the trigger. Obviously there are sometimes pictures of the actual gun, but sometimes I see sales with just the factory image off the Steyr web page.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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Correct, the newer Mx-A1 series removed the safety.
Only the European models still have it. You can put it into the MxA1 frame after a cut or two with a dremel.
I know Jeff at SAI will sell you any parts you need but to buy the complete assembly might be more difficult as Steyr does NOT want the liability of your modification.
Has anyone else worked on making their own rail adapter for the early generation Steyr's?
Not to my knowledge. I have 2 MxA1's and one M357. I did play around with stuff on the rail but will not carry it with anything on the rail. For me the rail is only good for a laser for dry practice.
But I will say the grips texture is noticeable between the two.
Yeah, I did not plan to carry with anything on the rail, just when I have it locked up at home at night. Nice to have a light on it in case something goes bump in the night, at least until I get something else for home protection. Not even really worried about a laser.

I was also a little concerned about the difference in feel between the newer generation versus the older generation. I love the feel of my M40 and really would rather not try my luck with the other. I may just have to get the rail adapter from Steyr. Maybe after I have purchased it, I can have a fabricating friend create soemthing similar and I can help others on here that may want something that works for less than $100 and make a few bucks in the process. Thanks for the feedback on my questions.
I looked at that $111 (with shipping) Steyr-brand rail adapter, and thought it was.....over-priced. I own an M9, and also a S&W Sigma with a polymer rail adapter (Laserlyte, about $10,, which converts the Sigma proprietary rail into a standard picatinny rail. It looks like the Sigma's rail adapter can be modified by filing / cutting on the polymer rails to make it fit the cutouts on the M9 frame, however the M9's frame is wider than the Sigma's by maybe 3/16 of an inch or so, and would require a spacer to make it wider. The vertical height of the rail / groove alignment looks okay. I have not pursued the mod beyond the eyeballing stage, and may never do it, but for the $90 price difference, it's certainly worth a try. The other option might be to simply drill two small holes in the frame on either side of the serial number plate and simply bolt or screw a short section of rail on (or use adhesive?). Be advised however that Jeff Reece at Steyr says they will no longer warranty your frame if you drill holes through it. Either way, the rail on an M9 will be higher up on the frame in relation to the trigger guard than the rail on a A1 series frame. I'm speculating that the A1 rail is much lower (just above the level of the trigger guard) so that it's easier to reach the switch on whatever light or laser device is mounted on it, with your trigger finger. Just something else to consider.

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I just bit the bullet and ordered the rail adapter last night. I have a friend that is an amazing fabricator with many different mediums and I am going to see if he can use it as a template to create something similar. If he can, I will be sure to let the people on here know as I am sure that it would be a more affordable option.
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