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mtobias,

i'm truly sorry guys, this turned into a super long post but i think i can help.

i own 2 steyrs. love 'em. bought an s40 used: trigger didn't reset. FREQUENTLY. did the only logical thing... bought a brand new M9. trigger didn't reset. sent them both to steyr repair (remember when we could do that?) they claimed to have fixed both of them, however day one at the range revealed that the trigger still failed to reset. he has subsequently confided in me a few tips tweaks and upgrades to ensure proper functioning, which in my experience totally worked.

step 1 pull your firing pin assembly out. there should be a guide pin, a spring and a notched piece of metal holding the spring on the guide post. this notched piece of metal is refered to as a weight. (as in it affects trigger pull weight via spring preload. part #45) some steyrs have two weights, some have one. the spring is unchanged. the single weight doesn't put enough preload on the spring to pull the sear onto the post while going into battery. which is the definition of your trigger reseting. if the firing pin spring compresses too much when the slide is coming forward, the tang on the bottom of the firing pin will simply ride over the sear, hence your trigger is not reset. (add light primer ammo and you can double tap/full auto all day long. and it SUCKS) the right fix is add a weight. the right now fix is tug on the spring to make it longer, which will add the necessary preload when reassebled. one of my springs is really stretched out, which is bad, but either gun will run with either one, so you really can't stretch it too much to get the gun to work. at some point you're increasing trigger pull effort. longevity of the really stretched out spring is unknown. mine's gone around 2000 rounds so far. incidentally, while you have the firing pin assembly apart, its a great time to polish that guide rod, as well as remove any burrs from your weight. a burr on the weight will make a nice scratch in your guide rod, conveniently at the point the trigger would like to break and make your trigger gritty and break inconsistently.

step 2 with the top end off the gun (slide barrel etc...) pull the trigger. listen for a definitive click. if you hear a click you have trouble easily solved. if no click good. (i'll tell you how to fix the click if you need me to later.) keep pulling it, what you'll notice is that there is one little spring that pulls on the sear, both forward and up that is on the opposite side of the drop safety. this holds the sear so that the firing pin can grab onto it when it goes back into battery. this spring also acts to push the sear into the drop safety. (I'd love to get the spec. on sear area frame width and sear width.) this can be trouble if you have a burr on the side of the sear that is touching the drop safety, it can prevent the sear from getting up onto the post. you should be able to push the sear down and have it pop right back up. it goes down so the firing pin can bypass it on recoil but needs to pop back up on the return. if it doesn't pop right back up, you got trouble. take the sear and the drop safety out and polish the two mating surfaces. be careful though, the more metal you remove, the more that the sear twists in between the sub frame rails and the more pressure it can exert on the drop safety.

step 3 dry fire. really slam the slide ( no way you'll hurt anything) it should reset everytime no matter how hard or soft you do it, but make sure you hold the trigger to the rear while the slide is moving. i'd shoot for two hundred clean dry fires before i wasted money on ammo. do it 30 at a time a few times a day with leather gloves to save your elbow and your skin. if that's gold, you're gold. but that's what all steyr shooters are. if not... you're still gold: we'll work on the gun.

try these few things. there are more things to consider but these are the first.
 

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The good news is that you will still be putting pressure on the trigger when you're shooting live ammo. so, you should be fine.

my buddy's sear stays down. all the time, no matter what. it's as if spring #12 has lost its sizzle. and his gun functions 100%. but the sear "should" pop up.

be sure to simulate the slide cycling as accurately as possible. meaning, hold the trigger to the rear, rip the slide backwards and let it slam home. what happens is the sear stays down when the slide is coming into battery allowing the tang on the firing pin to bypass it. if you cycle the slide slowly, the sear has much more of a chance to pop up.

hope this helps. i'm working on a complete trigger tutorial.

keep up with the questions. steyrs are incredible, we gotta make sure they work 100%
 

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this is a very interesting question.

the manual actually shows the beveled side going towards the spring. but near as i can tell, (tough to see down there) there is a bevel in the firing pin. i had always thought that the bevel should match the bevel in the firing pin, but then again, the manual says otherwise. i have the flat side towards the spring in both of mine and they work fine. if yours works fine, then i guess it really doesn't matter.

anyone know for sure if there's a problem with either orientation?
 

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have you removed the sub-frame from the grip? it sounds like you've got some goop/grit/grime in there. a thorough cleaning is the first thing SAI would do i'm sure.


solvent hose down, hot running water to flush it. dry it using canned air and thoroughly lube up the sear area. then blow out the lube with canned air.

if you're still having trouble. SAI will patch it up for you.

if SAI didn't exist, there are lots of places you could look for the trouble. but since they do exist AND THEY ROCK!!! it's probably best left to the experts if you need to go beyond cleaning.
 
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