M9 Trigger Reset Problems and Fixes

Discussion in 'Maintenance / Tweaks / Technical Difficulties / So' started by Guest, Aug 21, 2005.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Took my M9 out to the range today with 147 grain Remington green box ammo. I shot about 120 rounds and still had 2 reset malfunctions. They came at about 80 and 90 rounds and both were second shot off the draw. (I shot the first 75 shots stationary not off the draw) Now I'm trying to narrow down the possibilities. I knew someone who had problems with green box extracting so I plan to get some Winchester white box and go out again on Wednesday. My only other thought is that maybe I was limp wristing my second shot. Obviously there was a problem with the trigger bar but now that it is fixed maybe that was the minor problem and my grip was amplifying it.
    Time will tell I guess. I'll take it out Wednesday and concentrate on my form then if it still has problems I may have to think about trading it in. :cry:
    Anyone have any thoughts? Let me know.
     
  2. ministerofdeath

    ministerofdeath New Member

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    Its always hard to make a diagnosis when you can't see the patient, but I would say that you're heading in the right direction by trying a different brand of ammunition and improving grip form next time around.

    The Steyr M-series is built to tight tolerances and does not handle certain brands of ammunition well. Some brands of ammunition are so poorly manufactured that I avoid them at all costs anyways. The Steyr grip is different from most pistols and for good reason to facilitate a natural point to improve marksmanship. That said, some people have difficulty at first with "limp wristing," there are excellent tutorials on this website to help you achieve proper grip. However, practice makes perfect and I'm sure you'll get use to the Steyr grip very quickly.

    I would also do a complete cleaning on your weapon as per the cleaning tutorial on this website as Steyr M-series pistols may have been in storage for years without cleaning before reaching the buyer. Go beyond a simple field strip if possible to reach all those hard too clean places. Often gunk does build up in the trigger housing and other parts that are not cleaned during a field strip.

    If you really want to know what is wrong with your pistol take a camera with you to the range next time and take some pictures of your pistol, ammunition, spent casings, and the interior of your pistol afterwards. There are individuals on here who have experienced the same problems and been able to correct it that can help you.

    Safe Shooting
     

  3. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I can't see how the trigger reset is related to ammo you used. The M9 trigger reset as fast and as soon as your slide move just half an inch or less. So if the slide cycled, your trigger had reseted.

    Did you check all you springs internally? One broker spring would make your M9 go south real quick.
     
  4. bigtaco

    bigtaco Active Member

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    mtobias,

    i'm truly sorry guys, this turned into a super long post but i think i can help.

    i own 2 steyrs. love 'em. bought an s40 used: trigger didn't reset. FREQUENTLY. did the only logical thing... bought a brand new M9. trigger didn't reset. sent them both to steyr repair (remember when we could do that?) they claimed to have fixed both of them, however day one at the range revealed that the trigger still failed to reset. he has subsequently confided in me a few tips tweaks and upgrades to ensure proper functioning, which in my experience totally worked.

    step 1 pull your firing pin assembly out. there should be a guide pin, a spring and a notched piece of metal holding the spring on the guide post. this notched piece of metal is refered to as a weight. (as in it affects trigger pull weight via spring preload. part #45) some steyrs have two weights, some have one. the spring is unchanged. the single weight doesn't put enough preload on the spring to pull the sear onto the post while going into battery. which is the definition of your trigger reseting. if the firing pin spring compresses too much when the slide is coming forward, the tang on the bottom of the firing pin will simply ride over the sear, hence your trigger is not reset. (add light primer ammo and you can double tap/full auto all day long. and it SUCKS) the right fix is add a weight. the right now fix is tug on the spring to make it longer, which will add the necessary preload when reassebled. one of my springs is really stretched out, which is bad, but either gun will run with either one, so you really can't stretch it too much to get the gun to work. at some point you're increasing trigger pull effort. longevity of the really stretched out spring is unknown. mine's gone around 2000 rounds so far. incidentally, while you have the firing pin assembly apart, its a great time to polish that guide rod, as well as remove any burrs from your weight. a burr on the weight will make a nice scratch in your guide rod, conveniently at the point the trigger would like to break and make your trigger gritty and break inconsistently.

    step 2 with the top end off the gun (slide barrel etc...) pull the trigger. listen for a definitive click. if you hear a click you have trouble easily solved. if no click good. (i'll tell you how to fix the click if you need me to later.) keep pulling it, what you'll notice is that there is one little spring that pulls on the sear, both forward and up that is on the opposite side of the drop safety. this holds the sear so that the firing pin can grab onto it when it goes back into battery. this spring also acts to push the sear into the drop safety. (I'd love to get the spec. on sear area frame width and sear width.) this can be trouble if you have a burr on the side of the sear that is touching the drop safety, it can prevent the sear from getting up onto the post. you should be able to push the sear down and have it pop right back up. it goes down so the firing pin can bypass it on recoil but needs to pop back up on the return. if it doesn't pop right back up, you got trouble. take the sear and the drop safety out and polish the two mating surfaces. be careful though, the more metal you remove, the more that the sear twists in between the sub frame rails and the more pressure it can exert on the drop safety.

    step 3 dry fire. really slam the slide ( no way you'll hurt anything) it should reset everytime no matter how hard or soft you do it, but make sure you hold the trigger to the rear while the slide is moving. i'd shoot for two hundred clean dry fires before i wasted money on ammo. do it 30 at a time a few times a day with leather gloves to save your elbow and your skin. if that's gold, you're gold. but that's what all steyr shooters are. if not... you're still gold: we'll work on the gun.

    try these few things. there are more things to consider but these are the first.
     
  5. madecov

    madecov Active Member

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    Excellent post.
    Really hope this helps.



    This should be a sticky for trigger reset problems.
     
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Wow, that's really great information. Thanks so much. That said, it may be slightly over my head at the moment since I am still learning my gun and since my gun managed to pulverize the new trigger reset spring that idpasteyr was nice enough to send me (after only anout three hundred rounds). So, since I can't get ahold of a new trigger spring (or mechanism) right now I think I'm going to push to have it exchanged or returned. I am afterall not a gunsmith and even if I can fix it what good is being able to fix it if there are no parts available?
     
  7. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Sticky sear

    I've not fired my M40 in a couple of months. The last time I went to the range it would not reset, ever. I had cleaned it the night before and I think that I removed all of the lube from the sear area and didn't replace it with a sufficient quantity or get it in all the right places. But when dry-firing and hand cycling the gun, the trigger would reset, no problem.
    So, last night I disssembled the gun again and re-lubed the sear area. Everything works much more smoothly and the the trigger pull is now grit-free (1 definitive click, no creep). I have yet to fire it, but I did the simple "push down on the sear and see if it comes up" test.
    The results were that it did not come back up. It seems to be getting jammed on the frame rails, yet with ever-so-slight pressure on the trigger, the sear moves up-and-down freely. Is this normal? Is it good enough? Unfortunately, I did not do this test before re-lubing.
    Thanks.
     
  8. bigtaco

    bigtaco Active Member

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    The good news is that you will still be putting pressure on the trigger when you're shooting live ammo. so, you should be fine.

    my buddy's sear stays down. all the time, no matter what. it's as if spring #12 has lost its sizzle. and his gun functions 100%. but the sear "should" pop up.

    be sure to simulate the slide cycling as accurately as possible. meaning, hold the trigger to the rear, rip the slide backwards and let it slam home. what happens is the sear stays down when the slide is coming into battery allowing the tang on the firing pin to bypass it. if you cycle the slide slowly, the sear has much more of a chance to pop up.

    hope this helps. i'm working on a complete trigger tutorial.

    keep up with the questions. steyrs are incredible, we gotta make sure they work 100%
     
  9. bigbob68

    bigbob68 New Member

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    Has anyone noticed that the "weight" has a beveled side to it? I have put the beveled side down, towards the spring, I hope this is correct. Any input is appreciated. I did not notice this when I first took it apart but since then I have always made sure that the beveled edge is down and in contact with the spring. I have not had any of the problems as described by others and now have 700 trouble free rounds. My G30 had its first FTF (failure to feed) out of about 1000rnds. I did notice that the spring is somewhat difficult to get off the rod but I have yet to have any problems. If you could let me know about this weight and how it is correctly installed, I would greatly appreciate it.
     
  10. bigtaco

    bigtaco Active Member

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    this is a very interesting question.

    the manual actually shows the beveled side going towards the spring. but near as i can tell, (tough to see down there) there is a bevel in the firing pin. i had always thought that the bevel should match the bevel in the firing pin, but then again, the manual says otherwise. i have the flat side towards the spring in both of mine and they work fine. if yours works fine, then i guess it really doesn't matter.

    anyone know for sure if there's a problem with either orientation?
     
  11. Matches

    Matches New Member

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    I had my firing pin out before going to the range. My M9 failed to reset (a lot) the last time I went shooting. Coincidence? I have had so many problems with this pistol that I put it away after this latest problem until the weather cools off a little and I do too.

    Matches
     
  12. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Reset problems gone!

    OK, I don't know all the techical terms of the trigger mechanism and I don't have the manual in front of me, so I'll do my best.
    I fired 150 rounds a couple of days ago with 0 reset issues! The last time I fired my gun, it was perfectly clean and would not reset at all...
    What did I do? [After another cleaning...] I applied a small amount of light grease-type lube I got at WalMart to the underside of the sear in the following areas: the slots where the pin that the sear hinges on rides and the area where the metal arm that comes from the trigger interfaces with [what I think is] the drop-safety and the sear. I added a tiny bit between the sear and insides of the main frame rails. I also applied a small amount of the light grease-type lube to the interface between the trigger safety and the top of the trigger. Basically, everywhere that moves during the trigger reset.
    Also, I made sure to remove all lube from the outside of the firing pin and the firing pin channel. I did put some Eezox inside of the pin, where the spring is. If that area is dry, the slide has trouble going fully back into battery when hand cycled.
    This cured my problems, so hopefully it will work for you.
     
  13. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Hi, New here. On the subject of the "Sticky Trigger" Are you experiencing a slide lock-up with this? I took my newly acquired S-40 out yesterday and it jammed twice. The first ten went great. I bought it as a carry weapon so this won't do.
    It fed the round but wouldn't fire(sticky trigger) but it also wouldn't release the slide to clear the chamber. Even after I dropped the mag it took several minutes of fiddling to get it open. After the second hang-up I gave up. I like the firearm but if this is what I have to contend with... that Taurus PT111 is looking better. :?
     
  14. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Hi, New here. On the subject of the "Sticky Trigger" Are you experiencing a slide lock-up with this? I took my newly acquired S-40 out yesterday and it jammed twice. The first ten went great. I bought it as a carry weapon so this won't do.
    It fed the round but wouldn't fire(sticky trigger) but it also wouldn't release the slide to clear the chamber. Even after I dropped the mag it took several minutes of fiddling to get it open. After the second hang-up I gave up. I like the firearm but if this is what I have to contend with... that Taurus PT111 is looking better.
     
  15. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Sticky Trigger

    Hi, New here. On the subject of the "Sticky Trigger" Are you experiencing a slide lock-up with this? I took my newly acquired S-40 out yesterday and it jammed twice. The first ten went great. I bought it as a carry weapon so this won't do.
    It fed the round but wouldn't fire(sticky trigger) but it also wouldn't release the slide to clear the chamber. Even after I dropped the mag it took several minutes of fiddling to get it open. After the second hang-up I gave up. I like the firearm but if this is what I have to contend with... that Taurus PT111 is looking better.
     
  16. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Hi, New here. On the subject of the "Sticky Trigger" Are you experiencing a slide lock-up with this? I took my newly acquired S-40 out yesterday and it jammed twice. The first ten went great. I bought it as a carry weapon so this won't do.
    It fed the round but wouldn't fire(sticky trigger) but it also wouldn't release the slide to clear the chamber. Even after I dropped the mag it took several minutes of fiddling to get it open. After the second hang-up I gave up. I like the firearm but if this is what I have to contend with... that Taurus PT111 is looking better.
     
  17. Knutzen

    Knutzen New Member

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    I recently had a minor issue with trigger reset. Reset was very rare when I dry fired, but I put 250 rounds through the piece and had no failure to reset at all, so it wasn't really a huge deal, just made me uncomfortable.

    Turned out what when I pulled the sear assembly apart, I put spring #12 in the wrong way. If you're having problems like this, check spring #12 to make sure you've got it installed correctly.
     
  18. babj615

    babj615 Premium Member

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    ...sorry to hear about your troubles.....


    ...should you decide to sell it, please advise me!!!!

    Cheers!
     
  19. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Moderator

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    Check the date on that post, babj - I would assume Dirtball has already sold the pistol or had it fixed, as his post was from Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:02 am :wink:
     
  20. babj615

    babj615 Premium Member

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    Dang It!!!!

    I only viewed the post cuz Knutzens reply was "new".....

    I didn't check the date of original post..... [obviously] :oops: :oops: :oops: