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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, dear friends

I am a newbie on this forum. I have got a Steyr M A1. I like it very much, but have some questions about the maintenance.
For example, now I have got to replace the ejector on the sub-frame but don't know what to do exactly (there is no tutorials for it, I mean for the ejector changing).

Also, I want to replace the extractor (I have one for cal. .40 S&W but want to put in for cal. 9x19) I do know how to do this, but have no idea where to order that part of the pistol. I have emailed to [email protected] but there's no answer.

Where can I order the set extractor by inet?

Thank you in advance.
 

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Welcome to the SteyrClub!

Don't email, call Jeff. They are uber busy and frequently don't respond to email, but they do answer the phone - what a concept! Don't do anything with the subframe without talking to Jeff. www.steyrarms.com - (205) 655-8299. You'll be glad you did.
 

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I think I'll put together a video for this with my C9. I'm sure its setup the same, if not I'll ignore it and not post it.
 

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Guys, he wrote ejector as well as extractor. I don't think we have tutorials on removing the ejector. Extractor yes - that's why I suggested he contact Jeff, the ejector problem.
 

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Guys, he wrote ejector as well as extractor. I don't think we have tutorials on removing the ejector. Extractor yes - that's why I suggested he contact Jeff, the ejector problem.
Doh!

Ejector is a factory replacement part only. You are not doing it on your own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Guys, he wrote ejector as well as extractor. I don't think we have tutorials on removing the ejector. Extractor yes - that's why I suggested he contact Jeff, the ejector problem.
You are quite right, that's the problem.
 

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Why do you need to replace the ejector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, guys
I did it by myself. I mean I have just replaced the ejector. That was not so difficult as I had imagined it before. :)
 

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Well, guys
I did it by myself. I mean I have just replaced the ejector. That was not so difficult as I had imagined it before. :)
Extractor or Ejector?

I think you mean extractor.

The ejector is not a serviceable part.

I'm glad you got it done though! =)
Always feels good to do things yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How did you re-attach it and what was wrong with it?
mine was too short (it was shortened by the previous owner) and now I need a normal one.
In order to replace it you have to disassemble the sear mechanism, then to knock the ejector level out #9 (but not completely) by means of some punch of the same diameter as the level. Then you just replace the ejector and hammer the level in its place. The last operation is rather difficult but not so much, you can do it at home, you don't need any special tools.
 

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mine was too short (it was shortened by the previous owner) and now I need a normal one.
In order to replace it you have to disassemble the sear mechanism, then to knock the ejector level out #9 (but not completely) by means of some punch of the same diameter as the level. Then you just replace the ejector and hammer the level in its place. The last operation is rather difficult but not so much, you can do it at home, you don't need any special tools.
Looking at mine again, if you could get that pin holding it to break loose clean, I can see it going.

Must have been fun. haha.

The way the pin is rolled over makes it look factory replacement over.

Thanks for the great info and figuring this out!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looking at mine again, if you could get that pin holding it to break loose clean, I can see it going.

Must have been fun. haha.

The way the pin is rolled over makes it look factory replacement over.

Thanks for the great info and figuring this out!!!
you are right, if you hammer the rolled pin out completely, it will get unrolled probably and you will not be able to put it into the sub-frame again. That's why I hammered it out but NOT FULLY, but only to release the ejector. approximately 1/3 of the rolled pin still remained in the sub-frame. That's why it has not been unrolled.
 

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Roll pins normally don't unroll, just relax a bit. They have a chamfer on one end, and that's the end which must be inserted first. It pays to get a set of roll pin starter punches, and a set of the round pin knock out punches if you're going to be doing much work with roll pins. The starter punches are tubular at the end, so the roll pin fits in, that helps keep it straight while you're putting it in. Harbor Freight has a roll pin kit that I've found handy, or you can buy them from Enco, or Fastenal. For stuff that is critical, I'd buy from Fastenal, but for the ejector, HF would be good enough.
 

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Roll pins normally don't unroll, just relax a bit. They have a chamfer on one end, and that's the end which must be inserted first. It pays to get a set of roll pin starter punches, and a set of the round pin knock out punches if you're going to be doing much work with roll pins. The starter punches are tubular at the end, so the roll pin fits in, that helps keep it straight while you're putting it in. Harbor Freight has a roll pin kit that I've found handy, or you can buy them from Enco, or Fastenal. For stuff that is critical, I'd buy from Fastenal, but for the ejector, HF would be good enough.
It's a roll pin that's thin and flared out on one end.

I don't think I'd want to chance taking it all the way out.
 
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