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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is one way to stiffen the forearm of a Pro Hunter stock. Cut two channels in the web of the barrel channel up to the contact point. Do not remove the rubber contact point unless you plan on doing a full bed job on the stock. Place two aluminum shafts the length of the cuts in the channel. Apply bedding compound to both ends to lock the shafts in place. Use enough bedding to make solid blocks on each end but not touching the barrel. This mod doesn't add much weight and lets the stock perform much better off of a bipod. I did this to a Remington VTR and groups went from 1.5 inch to .40 inch 3 shot groups at 100 yards with tuned handloads. The Remington had horrible quality issues and I became disgusted with the gun even after extensive modifications so I sold it. I bought a Savage 16 to replace it and it shoots tighter groups with no mods.....can't say enough about that. Anyway I hope this helps someone make their steyr a better firearm.
 

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Did the same thing using 3/8" Carbon Fiber rod. Then found the next weak link to be right at the recoil lug/ front screw area. I placed 1/8" dia by 3" long rods 2 deep in 2 slots, approx 1/3 down from top and 1/3 up from bottom. Then had the stock dipped. THe stock is as stiff as the new black stocks yet not as heavy.
 

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Can either or both of y'all post pics of these mods? I may be interested in trying these on my Prohunter .260.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All you would see on mine is bedding in the bottom. I just bought a new 416 Remington Magnum and along with the 376 Steyr did full bed jobs on them. I like the Steyr better with the full length bed job now. It added a little weight(which is never a bad thing on big bores) but the solid feel of the stock is worth the tradeoff. Of course this is just my opinion and some people like ultra light rifles. The main thing is the barrel will need a contact point if it is not strong enough to prevent flexing. I can give you an idea for an easier stock mod that may solve the flex. You could just bed the last chamber or two in the stock and see if that cures the problem. If you try this and it doesn't work then you could do a full bed job. Also you could go back and just halfway fill the chambers without touching the barrel so the stock is stiffer and free floated. I think bedding rods is the best way tho. I almost forgot....you can add graphite filler to make bedding lighter(fluffier) and still remain strong.
 

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Like Jester a phot of my mod would only show the bedding. I ended using 5/16" steel rod. I looked at other materials but it really did need the strength of steel. Brass had far too much flex to begin with. I actually like the extra weight out front.
 

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Would like to be able to post images but had a basement flood and things are all torn apart and I can't get to anything needed. pm me and I'll be glad to discuss this. Sen me a phone no in pm and I'll call you if you'd like.
 

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Gidday All

I am new member here but not new to shooting. Although I have only owned me S/S 270WSM Pro Hunter for 7 months.

I see Steyr Austria website is now showing Carbon Fibre stocks for the Pro HUnter.

Does anyone know anything about them?

I have submitted enquiries to both Steyr Austria and Winchester Australia who are the importer down under. But no answer

Be nice to see them availble as a aftermarket replacement if they are indeed stiffer.
 

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Mike in yampa Co is working on my stock and he has put 3 x 1/4 inch bidirectional carbon rods in the bottom off the stock and 2 x 1/8 of an inch rods where the channels are and I bedded the action and the rods in place with devcon titanium epoxy. So we will see in a few day how she goes

Shaun
 

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Here is one way to stiffen the forearm of a Pro Hunter stock. Cut two channels in the web of the barrel channel up to the contact point. Do not remove the rubber contact point unless you plan on doing a full bed job on the stock. Place two aluminum shafts the length of the cuts in the channel. Apply bedding compound to both ends to lock the shafts in place. Use enough bedding to make solid blocks on each end but not touching the barrel. This mod doesn't add much weight and lets the stock perform much better off of a bipod. I did this to a Remington VTR and groups went from 1.5 inch to .40 inch 3 shot groups at 100 yards with tuned handloads. The Remington had horrible quality issues and I became disgusted with the gun even after extensive modifications so I sold it. I bought a Savage 16 to replace it and it shoots tighter groups with no mods.....can't say enough about that. Anyway I hope this helps someone make their steyr a better firearm.
Hi

Checking in to see if there have been any developments or advice people can offer. I have a Pro Varmint in 223. The stock is flexible and on hot days with the Atlas bipod fitted touches the barrel.
I'm probably going to give it a bed job and/or reinforce the stock with rods and resin. Has Steyr got a fix for this? Are aftermarket stocks available?

Cheers
 

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New to the site, loads of useful info.
I've just become the owner of an SBS tactical in 308.
Mine is shooting fine off a bag but I'm looking to fit a bipod.
I was going to see how it shoots first before doing any mods to the front end.
My first question is:-
My gun is fitted with Millett sling swivels.
How do I mount a bipod onto that or is there a stud or adapter which fits.
 

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New to the site, loads of useful info.
I've just become the owner of an SBS tactical in 308.
Mine is shooting fine off a bag but I'm looking to fit a bipod.
I was going to see how it shoots first before doing any mods to the front end.
My first question is:-
My gun is fitted with Millett sling swivels.
How do I mount a bipod onto that or is there a stud or adapter which fits.
I would t bother trying, there is a small cylinder type attachment which goes into the cut out for the millet type swivel, it doesn’t work. Once you tightened the bi pod it simply falls off the Rifle.
I have one in 30/06, I use a Bergen to shoot off or a set of sticks.
 
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