Got my new M9A1, took it to the range.

Discussion in 'M, C, L and S Series' started by Governor, Feb 22, 2007.

  1. Governor

    Governor Guest

    2
    0
    0
    About a week ago I got my M9A1 from CDNN, and yesterday I was able to get out to the local range to give it a go. Having never held one before, when it got here I realized it is actually a lot bigger pistol than I thought it was going to be. I was a little disappointed in that aspect. However, by the looks of the pictures and comparing (online) of other guns, I knew It was going to fit my hand like a glove. I was right, it does. The trigger was rather underwhelming. My well-broken-in Glock 23 has much less creep and it significantly smoother, but I did like the break of the M better. I hope it smoothes out with more shooting.


    At the range...
    I had my G23 to compare against the M9 (not exactly apples to apples, I know). I emptied my carry load onto the paper at a fairly fast pace into about a 5 inch circle at about 6 yards. Not bad for being cold and doing it fast. I set the glock down and started to load the M mags (as an aside, I think Steyr should really do something about the followers. They are not smooth, and they tilt quite a bit). I got both of them loaded, set the target out about 5 yards, did about 20 dry firings, and then loaded it for live fire.
    First shot, dead center. Wow, harldy any recoil. Second, did it even hit the paper? Yeah, it went through the same hole. I emptied the mag alow fire and ended up with about a nickel sized group at 5 yards. I really like the sights. I backed things up to 7 years and had a group slightly larger than a quarter. I backed it up to about 15 yards and put about 75 more rounds through I softball sized hole. There was a smile across my face.

    I moved back to the glock with some blazer. My groups about doubled. The web of my hand hurt. The grip sucked. I shot two mags, loaded up my carry ammo, and put it away.


    Some more negatives:
    1)The trigger definitely can use some work
    2) I had one FT (does anyone actually know what these abbr. mean anyways?) The only time it failed was when I had only loaded 4 rounds into the mag and the put it in the gun. I attribute this to crappy tilting followers. anyone else have any ideas? The first shot fired and the next one jammed.
    3) The tension of the slide for the first 1/8 inch if the gun is "cocked" is extremely minimal. The same thing happens on a glock, but the glock still has a substantial amount more closing pressure during that last 1/8 inch that the steyr. Could the stiker spring be too strong?
    3a) I noticed "3" because I had another shooter with me that, as I discovered, did not actually drop the slide once he pulled it back. He kept his hand on it and rode it down. I know this is incorrect and told him so. It worked fine after I showed him the correct way, but it still irks me how slight the pressure is when the gun is "cocked."
    3b) Can this thing fire out of battery?! When my friend had the 3a experience he stopped, put the pistol down and told me "I pulled the trigger but nothing happened." I went over to inspect. The slide wasn't all the way closed. I figure the problem was him riding it down (later confirmed). But the more bothersome issue was It Had a Light Primer Stike (!!!!!). What the hell was it doing with a LPS if the slide wasn't all the way closed? It still worries me.


    All in all I like this pistol. It is accurate, and hopefully will prove to be reliable in the future. I hope I can address some of the issues I have mentioned above.


    Thanks for letting me waste you guys' time.
    :D



    ETA: The grip also gets dang slippery. I think I am going to have to get a Hogue. Although, I really don't want to change the feel of the grip at all.


    Also, I measured the bore axis in relation to the back of the grip and compared it to the G23. They are pretty much exactly the same.
     
  2. MrApathy

    MrApathy Active Member

    1,085
    5
    38
    light off center strikes out of battery
    some ammo may go off ie Federal primed ammo.
    CCI primers are tough and shouldnt.

    new steyr tends to do that with the battery it gets better.
    very accurate gun if you do your part. trigger gets better.

    followers are well designed better than most guns.
    new mags should be tough to load and can cause some problems when new best thing to do is shoot them. can also load the mag store it loaded and unload the ammo and reload it constantly.
    stretching or cutting springs will just ruin them.

    Steyr's tend to be little finicky when new can shoot the gun lots or try my suggestions in stickied thread in Maintenance section
     

  3. Shooter

    Shooter Premium Member

    1,689
    7
    38
    Welcome aboard. I put Hogue grips on all three of my M pistols. I don't have a New M1 style but you might want to try some skateboard tape before getting the Hogue and place some on the backstrap and sides. That won't change the shape and is a cheap fix. Otherwise I use the rubber grip decals on my Glocks that I like alot.........
     
  4. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

    5,073
    13
    0
    I've had much success with a grip Hogue makes for Sioux Tools - it's designed is different from the type you find in gun stores and it fits a LOT tighter. It'd fix the slick problem for ya - let me know if you want one ($10 shipped for SC members). Wulf and a few others took me up on the offer and can attest to the perfect fit. Pics here.

    Don't let the few issues you had discourage you - the M's can be finicky before they're broken in. Run at least 500 rounds through it before you start getting nervous.

    Welcome to the club! :)
     
  5. Angel

    Angel Guest

    70
    0
    0
    The slide not going back in completely can be fixed by lubing the rails. This is not a Glock, don't run the rails dry. I use Tetra Gun Grease on the rails and it works wonders.

    And yes, this puppy is a lot more accurate than ANY Glock I have ever shot. Hence, I put up with its finicky nature.
     
  6. bigtaco

    bigtaco Active Member

    1,791
    10
    38
    also note that the magazines are NOT tennifer treated. they can have reisual crud in them from the trip over seas.

    it's a good idea to disassemble them, hose them down with degreaser (wd-40 works well) and lube them up with gun lube of choice.

    also, remove the slide, and the slide cap. remove the firing pin from it's guide rod and lube up the firing pin guide rod and spring. this should improve trigger feel.

    the light primer strike while out of battery is caused by the slide moving forward by the force of the firing pin. said firing pin will lightly strike the primer.

    remedied by not riding the slide during loading as noted. and will NOT happen when cycled during firing.

    edited to include

    FTE: two meanings, and should be clarified during post.

    1) failure to extract. the slide came back but left the empty in the chamber. usually results in a double feed.

    2) failure to eject. the slide and empty came back, but the empty did not clear the ejection port. usually results in some sort of stove pipe.

    FTF: 2 meanings and should be clarified during post

    1) failure to fire. trigger pull, no bang.

    2) failure to feed. extraction and ejection were fine but the subsequent round did not end up in the chamber. all kinds of causes: oal (overall length) of the cartidge too long. feed ramp grit. some guns don't like some bullet shapes. semi-wad cutters and some jhp (jacketed hollow point) shapes are particularly dis-agreeable in certain guns.

    another cause: not tapping mags.

    i know for a fact that steyr mags perform better when tapped. i have proven it by test.

    you may know what i mean by "tapping your mag", but for others who don't:

    after loading up a mag, tap the rear of the mag on your leg or the heel of your hand. this seats all the rounds to the rear of the magazine and ensures that every round is in the same position when the slide comes along to push the round up the feed ramp.

    some believe that magazines should not require this to function.

    regardless of your stance on this, i have proven by test that tapping steyr mags to the rear, dramtically improves reliability.

    and tapping any semi-auto mag is a long known military protocol.

    give it a 500-600 round break-in. the accuracy is testament to the tight tolerances these things are built to.

    if the trigger continues to be an issue there are several areas for improvement. a-1 thing is to make sure everything is well cleaned and properly lubed. in realation to a glock, the steyr likes LOTS of lube. spray it on a patch and wipe the whole thing down.

    the one area particularly sensitive to lube is the firing pin channel.

    grab a q-tip. spray lube on one end. run this down the firing pin channel. then use the clean and lube free end to remove basically all of the lube. treat the outside of the firing pin th same way with a lubed and a clean/dry patch.

    if, this area is flooded with lube, the channel can become hydro-locked in that the lube will stop the firing pin from travelling fully forward. this results in light pimer strikes and ftf. when lubed properly, no worries mate!

    anymore questions? let 'er rip.

    good shooting by the way. find an idpa or ipsc match, if you haven't allready. you'll love it.
     
  7. Governor

    Governor Guest

    2
    0
    0

    i'll do that, thanks. Maybe that is part of the problem.

    good to know.

    edited to include



    Thanks for the good info. My failure was a failure to feed. As noted, it was when I only had 4 rounds loaded in the mag. *Maybe* I didn't tap the mag after only loading a few rounds in it, but I am usually very good about this, and tap it 3-5 time whenever I load up a mag.


    I am going to try to get into IDPA, but really dont have the time right now.