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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
don't know how many folks caught this

it seems to me that mr IDPA steyr has solved the extractor problem

in "90.000 Rounds of Maintenance and Repair" he writes;

"The design problems are different and not easily remedied. I have tried multiple fixes from re-shaping the extractor hook to increasing the crimp on the ammunition. The failures all seem to be related to insufficient spring tension on the extractor causing it to slip off the case rim. I have finally solved the problem by installing a spring of higher tension than the original. Brownell’s had a spring pack that contains a spring of the same diameter and higher tension than the Steyr original. I just cut it to length and installed it. No problems since. The extractor area also needs to be very clean with very little oil on it to collect dirt. "

sticky?

so, can someone get a bulk deal some good springs?
haven't had any problems meself, but would put a new one in anyway to be safe
imagine i'm not alone
 

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IDPAsteyr replacement spring

IDPAsteyr,

Do you recall which Brownell's kit was used for the
extractor replacement spring?

Thanks,

-tF
 

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This makes perfect sense. If the extractor is stiffer, it can't slip.
 

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The spring kit that IDPASteyr used was Brownell's part # 080-950-300. His advice about the weak extractor spring was a real lifesaver for my M9 that wouldn't extract.

I took a little different tact and cut a 1911 plunger spring and put it inside the original Steyr spring, thereby stiffening it up. That solved the problem.
 

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Ramshackle springs

Ramshackle,

Does your inner spring push on the bottom of the plunger? Or is it interleaved with the original spring?

-tF
 

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Whoa,

Just had a thought. If a stiffer spring helps extraction, wouldn't a stiff extractor (from the packing grease) also hold the brass better?

I had to pry my extractor with a screw driver to get it to move before removing the assembly and giving it the ol' hihoslva treatment. My M9's at about 1500 rounds and I still need to wear a hat.

My order to Brownell's is in the mail.

-tF
 

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Ramshackle followed my advice but found a different spring to work on his gun. From the the Brownell's kit, I take the smallest spring and cut it about 1/16th inch shorter than the factory spring. I then slip it inside the factory spring and re-install it. I have done this on both of our primay competition guns and had no problems. When trying to reinstall the extractor, if you can't compress the spring enough to get the extractor installed, trim a little bit more off from it.
 
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theFiasco said:
Just had a thought. If a stiffer spring helps extraction, wouldn't a stiff extractor (from the packing grease) also hold the brass better?

I had to pry my extractor with a screw driver to get it to move before removing the assembly and giving it the ol' hihoslva treatment. My M9's at about 1500 rounds and I still need to wear a hat.
I would think, no, because it needs to be stiffer but smooth, not binding or sticking.
 

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Thanks, all!

I'm waiting for my pack of springs to arrive. I tried another light polishing of the flat surfaces of the extractor while waiting for the springs. After another 100 rounds, I had one come back and hit my hat. There was too much snow cover on our range to see exactly how the shells were falling.

-tF
 

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Don't know if this has any increased effect, but check out the upper right photo - the IGB barrel is cut to clear casings a little better. This is also found on Glock barrels.

 

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Ramshackle said:
I took a little different tact and cut a 1911 plunger spring and put it inside the original Steyr spring, thereby stiffening it up. That solved the problem.
I just did this to my M40 and it works! Prior to the fix, my gun occasionally wouldn't extract Winchester ammo, either white box or Ranger 155 grain JHPs. Today, I went through 150 rounds of white box, 69 rounds of Ranger, 10 rounds of Blazer and five rounds of R-P/UMC with no failures to extract. Now I just have to change the Dillon over to .40 S&W and refill those cases. ;)
 
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