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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I need to do something about my extraction problem on my M9-A1. Has anyone else tried ramshackle's solution with the 1911 plunger spring? It sounds like the easiest and cheapest way of trying to fix the problem, other than wearing a hard hat.

Thanks,

WPM
 

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extraction fix

i did quite a bit of back ground study on this weapon before purchase and
my m-9 has worked flawlessly since purchase.
from what i have read on this forum,
everyone that has performed the 1911 spring update has cured their extraction woes.
see the tutorials for info.
hope this helps
 

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Re: extraction fix

sewerman said:
i did quite a bit of back ground study on this weapon before purchase and
my m-9 has worked flawlessly since purchase.
from what i have read on this forum,
everyone that has performed the 1911 spring update has cured their extraction woes.
see the tutorials for info.
hope this helps
What does Steyr have to say about the matter?
 

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extraction fix

if your asking if the repair is sanctioned by steyr.......this i don't know.

but there's a good article in the tutorial by IDPA steyr .

this member put 90k rounds thru his m-9 and is the one who invented the
1911 spring fix.

check the article it's very interesting
 

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Re: extraction fix

sewerman said:
if your asking if the repair is sanctioned by steyr.......this i don't know.

but there's a good article in the tutorial by IDPA steyr .

this member put 90k rounds thru his m-9 and is the one who invented the
1911 spring fix.

check the article it's very interesting
Sorry - I should clarify....

What is their warranty? I mean, will they fix it versus having to resort to modifying anything?
 

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extraction fix

though i personally have no experience with steyr USA repair center,

i have read from this forum that steyr is willing to please and are very customer oriented.
frankly you might want to order the spring kit from brownell and try the fix. the part number is listed in the tutorials section.

it's better than going without your weapon and dealing with the turn around time.
 

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Steyr does not consider this an official fix. I returned my M40A1 for extraction problems and the entire plunger and spring where replaced. Turn time was about 10 days.
 

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Howdy All :)

Whataya 'spose SAI Service does to 'em to fix 'em before they ship 'em back all better? I haven't done the Wilson 1911 plunger spring fix but only because I don't have any FTE problems with my M357-A1. But one cure seems to be that plunger spring trick. The only time I've approched concern for extracting unruly spent brass was when I was pushin' the envelope of performance just a tad too hard and the cases had a bit of swell to 'em. On occasion, I've had to manually extract the spent case. Backing down a bit on the powder charge has thus far been the answer and the problem was eliminated entirely. I suspect that it'll pretty much stay that way till I push for a bit of endplay, or untill I shoot some really nasty factory ammo. :roll: I've shot everything Wal-Mart could feed my piece fom Wal-Mart to get the brass I needed so that's the range of my experience using factory ammo. Still some rounds give off the occational hot pop...ya know the time that you recognize that little extra bit of oomph. :p I can't prove it but I expect people who shoot only factory ammo and a Hell of a lot of it run into the occassional situation themselves. I don't know much about other factory ammo because I started reloading to cut my costs and taylor my ammo using those first 500 rounds from Wal-Mart ammo. I've added to that brass stash by gathering brass at indoor ranges, a trick I learned very quickly when I first tried to purchase 357 SIG brass from the locals. Nobody's perfect. :wink: But, I am interested in what exactly the Steyr Arms, Inc Service Center would do to make it right if I had that problem. Ya reckon they'd send ya a stronger spring? Maybe that's what they'll do. Saves everyone a lot of mail time and expense. Or if ya sent your M or S in, whataya think they'd do more elaborately there? That's where the action is. :p 'Spose someone oughtta ask?

Wulf
 

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When I had my fte problem parts from Steyr were not available....so I did the plunger spring fix; I had shot 700 rnds thru my m9 with a constant 2-3 fte per 50.

Put in the 1911 plunger spring and have shot 1000 rnds since without ANY fte's. Also solved the casings in the face problem, now the ejected brass go in a neat 4 ft circle to my right.

Cannot guarantee this will fix you but it is a cheap fix! 8)

Will Steyr sell parts or does one have to send it in?
 

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Hey Guys :)

Hey, does anyone have a selection of springs to compare to the extractor spring for size and tension? Instead of adding an additional spring, why not just add a heavier spring? I seem to remember my ol Colt Commander had 2 springs for the recoil/guide rod setup and the springs would intertwine a bit at times and create a roughness to the action. Perhaps a single stronger spring would be a better fix, and easier to install, as well. Just a thought. Hava good one.

Wulf
 

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Well, allow me to join the chorus. After almost 1000 rounds of essentially flawless functioning, my Steyr M40 has finally gone and taken a big crap on me. And, I’m wondering if this is the same kind of FTE problem that other people have been mentioning. I wonder because most of the complaints seem to come from NEW guns, which always seem to “break in” and work fine after a few hundred rounds. Mine WAS working great . . . until now.

The problem: the empty case doesn’t QUITE manage to eject. It gets pulled out almost all the way, but then stays in the chamber maybe 2-3 millimeters down, and when the piece tries to chamber a fresh round on top of it, it ties up the gun. Actually, it still seems to run okay with brass cased ammo, but nickel plated cases (as you find in almost all the high performance ammo) are failing to eject like this about once every two magazine loads.

Here’s a photo of the kinds of failures I’m getting:




When it first started failing, I took it home and cleaned the hell out of it (including the extractor) but a return trip to the range only produced the same problems. So, it’s not a “dirty gun” issue.

What a bummer. Until now, I’ve had total faith in my M40. Not any more. Now, I don’t trust it at all. And that makes for it being a pretty useless carry gun.

So, *if* you folks think it’s the extractor spring (which, perhaps, has finally weakened with use) should I just go ahead and hunt down a 1911 plunger spring, or should I ask Steyr for a replacement first? Or could it be something else (besides the extractor spring)?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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doing anything new? new magazine? new ammo?

does it jam in a particular round count?

try test loading the magazine
load 1 fire load 2 fire so on till full mag

could you send me or post bigger resolution picture?

are you missing your ejector?
 

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What kind of ammo? <shrug> What kind did you shoot before this started happening if you switched? And, check your extractor for any problem areas...burrs, busted off little piece, stuff like that. Is the sear block damaged or scarred? Take a look and get back to MrAp and what he needs to know. ;)

Wulf
 

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I hope a solution to this arises, besides the 1911 spring replacement. I'd like to see Steyr to offer a "factory" solution....Sounds like some folks who have had this happen contact Steyr and see what they say? Their tech support are supposed to be top notch, from what I read.
 

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Long story, but here goes:

I’ve got 4 magazines, and rotate them. I didn’t see any pattern in the recent failures occurring with one specific mag (were that happening, I’d have already tossed it).

Doesn’t seem to matter how many rounds are in the magazine. It can happen early on, with a nearly-full magazine, or when it’s almost empty.

Ejector looks normal - no obvious shiny or broken spots that I can see.

Problem *initially* was noticed when Wolf ammo (which I’ve always used for practice, and which always worked great, so long as I didn’t let the gun get too dirty) started with the FTE failures in a spotlessly-clean gun. This was disappointing, but since brass-cased S&B ammo continued to function okay, I wasn’t sure what to make of it. The real shocker came when I was testing out some new, high-performance ammo (Federal 135gr hollowpoints, with nickel-plated cases). Those gave me FTE’s. No biggie, I’ll just go back to the Speer Gold Dots I’d been using earlier. I’d already tested them out, and they worked just fine. But - surprise - the Gold Dots that worked fine six months ago weren’t working reliably now, either!

Very distressing that I was betting my life on cartridges that (as I discovered) would no longer function reliably in my pistol. My bad, I suppose, for being cheap and not running Gold Dots through it regularly - but then, even Wolf ammo was working fine until a few weeks ago.

I did run a few more magazines of brass (non-nickel plated) S&B ammo through it yesterday, and that stuff still works fine. But, even though it works okay, I don’t want to trust my life to S&B because: 1. I’m not confident that the failures won’t begin happening with S&B someday, and 2. I don’t really care much for using hardball in a self-defense situation.

The extractor has nothing obviously broken on it, but I noticed that the extractor itself has a shiny, worn spot along the bottom edge of the extractor’s tip. It *may* just be normal (it looks cleanly machined, as if it was done that way deliberately) but I can’t say for sure if it’s factory original, or a result of wear from use (I wonder if my extensive use of steel-cased Wolf ammo has accelerated the wear at that spot).

Hard for me to get a good photo it close up, but here’s what I’ve got:



I was distressing a bit about getting a Wilson plunger spring - would I have to contact Wilson directly, and beg them for one of their springs? Foolish me, as it turns out that they’re a stock Midway catalog item, selling for a mere $3.69 each. Heck, at that price, I’m going to order two, and then just experiment a little.
 
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