Continuing Problems and Disapointment
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G
Guest
·I noticed mine not locking fully when new and I just luded the sh*t out of it and it works fine. I always thinks the recoil spring is not strong enough and some of the parts are just too tight for it to function correctly.
G
Guest
·Ok matches you know the routine by now.... clean, lube, limpwristing?, ammo?
Are you one of these people who can break anything? or is it possible you got a lemon? I'd say send it in once the atlanta shop is up.
what is your total round count at anyway, are you even out of break-in yet?
Are you one of these people who can break anything? or is it possible you got a lemon? I'd say send it in once the atlanta shop is up.
what is your total round count at anyway, are you even out of break-in yet?
I'm starting to think lemon.
I've been trying a varity of ammo. Last trip it was Olympic, Remmington, and a few odd WWB and Blazer. The WWB was the 1st 10rns and was no problem. 5 rounds into the 2nd mag it jammed up out of batter really bac. I had to take it to the burly gunsmith to get it unjammed. The Blazer was the end of a box from 3 months ago (worked fine then, but so did the pistol) and was the primary culprit on the weak primer hits at the end of the day. At this rate the pistol is spending more time getting taken apart and being cleaned that being shot. Limp wristing is a posiblily as it was getting late and I was getting tired after the trek to the smith iand back to the line in the 100 desert heat.
Then again I do seem to have a bad track record with most things mechanical. Maybe I got some Gremlins I gotta exercise.
Matches
I've been trying a varity of ammo. Last trip it was Olympic, Remmington, and a few odd WWB and Blazer. The WWB was the 1st 10rns and was no problem. 5 rounds into the 2nd mag it jammed up out of batter really bac. I had to take it to the burly gunsmith to get it unjammed. The Blazer was the end of a box from 3 months ago (worked fine then, but so did the pistol) and was the primary culprit on the weak primer hits at the end of the day. At this rate the pistol is spending more time getting taken apart and being cleaned that being shot. Limp wristing is a posiblily as it was getting late and I was getting tired after the trek to the smith iand back to the line in the 100 desert heat.
Then again I do seem to have a bad track record with most things mechanical. Maybe I got some Gremlins I gotta exercise.
Matches
Joined
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925 Posts
Hmmmm, I'm sure you've already looked into this, but is it possible you're over lubercating the firing pin? Only mention it because no one else has brought it up yet.
As for going out of battery...hmmm, thats got me stumped. Hard to say anything intelligent about that problem.
Very possible you got a lemon because I know you've had one heck of a time with that pistol. If you dry that firing pin out and have the same issues and you've been following the cleaning tutorial on this website to the letter I'd say send that puppy back. Even limp wristing you shouldn't be having this many problems. Hey, even top of line luxary cars are sometimes lemons because of something that went wrong while they were on the line, these things happen.
Safe Shooting.
As for going out of battery...hmmm, thats got me stumped. Hard to say anything intelligent about that problem.
Very possible you got a lemon because I know you've had one heck of a time with that pistol. If you dry that firing pin out and have the same issues and you've been following the cleaning tutorial on this website to the letter I'd say send that puppy back. Even limp wristing you shouldn't be having this many problems. Hey, even top of line luxary cars are sometimes lemons because of something that went wrong while they were on the line, these things happen.
Safe Shooting.
Yeah I just read about the "hydro-lock" on MrBruceWayne's thread about his M357. It sounds like it may be part of my problem as I did you a liberal amount of oil before my last session. Now I'm trying to work up the courage to try and take apart my M9 per Cort's tutorial to try and rectify things. I'm just affraid I wont get things put back together or cause more problems than I correct.
Matches
Matches
G
Guest
·I just don't see how all this add up to problem you have. We have a combat pistol built to withstand many adverse conditions. This is not a jazzed up 1911 and it should not have this kind of problems.
New Development
With the slide locked open, if I slam a magazine in the slide goes into battery. I know others have reported this same condition. My M9 did not used to do this. I checked when others first reported this happening to them.
Matches
With the slide locked open, if I slam a magazine in the slide goes into battery. I know others have reported this same condition. My M9 did not used to do this. I checked when others first reported this happening to them.
Matches
Joined
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105 Posts
Re: New Development
I'm surprised you haven't taken your M further apart than basic field strip in 1500 rounds. Some of the areas really need to be taken apart to be throughly cleaned and properly lubricated. Especially if you have an M that likes to make brass confetti. Don't sweat it, the bunch of guys here will help you through any problems or questions you'll have when taking apart and putting the M back together. Maybe it'll even fix your problems. But some Ms are just finicky.
As you've already read, it's supposed to happen (with a loaded magazine) and it is due to inertia. Maybe when it was new you didn't slam it as hard and the parts have smoothed out a little over time.Matches said:
I'm surprised you haven't taken your M further apart than basic field strip in 1500 rounds. Some of the areas really need to be taken apart to be throughly cleaned and properly lubricated. Especially if you have an M that likes to make brass confetti. Don't sweat it, the bunch of guys here will help you through any problems or questions you'll have when taking apart and putting the M back together. Maybe it'll even fix your problems. But some Ms are just finicky.
G
Guest
·My Steyrs have all come from CDNN, and they have pointed out that most of these guns have been sitting in warehouses for a few years in 100+ degree Texas heat. This can't be healthy for any lubricating solution that might have been applied at the factory. To paraphrase a great orator: Gunk Happens.
I think Uncle Walty's advice is good.
I think Uncle Walty's advice is good.
Brass Confetti
While field stripping, cleaning, and trying to dry out the firing pin/channel I did come across flecks of what I must assume is brass. When the job was done the action seemed stiff,like something was catching. I could not figure it out but upon inspeciton of a few rounds I cycle thru I have notied scrapes or minor gouges. The go from middle of the actual bullet all the way down the side of the brass casing. This would seem to be a logical source of brass flecks but I have no real idea what would cause it. My knowledge of weapons anatomy is really limited.
Matches
While field stripping, cleaning, and trying to dry out the firing pin/channel I did come across flecks of what I must assume is brass. When the job was done the action seemed stiff,like something was catching. I could not figure it out but upon inspeciton of a few rounds I cycle thru I have notied scrapes or minor gouges. The go from middle of the actual bullet all the way down the side of the brass casing. This would seem to be a logical source of brass flecks but I have no real idea what would cause it. My knowledge of weapons anatomy is really limited.
Matches
Joined
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105 Posts
Re: Brass Confetti
The tips of the 2 ribs that are at the bottom of the slide that rides over the next round in the magazine seems to cause some brass confetti. Sharp edges on the extractor, ejector and loaded round indicator causes some dings on the brass and probably some confetti.Matches said:
flecks
Brass flecks are common. I'm of the mind they're caused by the feed lips on the mags; that's consistent with marks running the length of brass. If yours is producing flecs you should definately break your weapon down to the fullest extent (No fear, bro, someone here can help you out if you get into a bind) and clean any and all flecks. My .2 cents
Brass flecks are common. I'm of the mind they're caused by the feed lips on the mags; that's consistent with marks running the length of brass. If yours is producing flecs you should definately break your weapon down to the fullest extent (No fear, bro, someone here can help you out if you get into a bind) and clean any and all flecks. My .2 cents
I have had problems similar to Matches, with my M9.
My gun was so tight, that it would often require a push forward, when racking, to fully chamber the round and to get the slide back into battery.
I started loading my mags up all the way and cycling the gun by hand. I did this for about 500 rounds, just cycling the gun and slide by hand.
Seemed to smooth things up. I probably have 1000 rounds or so through the gun.
I also started racking the slide back and foth a bunch, in an effort to smooth it up.
I think that the tolerances are very, very tight on these guns.
My gun was so tight, that it would often require a push forward, when racking, to fully chamber the round and to get the slide back into battery.
I started loading my mags up all the way and cycling the gun by hand. I did this for about 500 rounds, just cycling the gun and slide by hand.
Seemed to smooth things up. I probably have 1000 rounds or so through the gun.
I also started racking the slide back and foth a bunch, in an effort to smooth it up.
I think that the tolerances are very, very tight on these guns.
G
Guest
·I think it's time for a deep down clean.
the idea here is we want to try to get your gun as close to new as possible and see if it shoots good again (instead of doing one area/issue at a time). If not then you have something mechanically bad.
remove the action carrier from the frame (tutorial is under maintenance).
clean using some kind of foaming cleaner or blasting type cleaner and a brush (though a brush won't reach some areas).
LIGHTLY oil everything in action carrier.
clean poly frame (i believe idpa steyr says he uses a dish soap 8O ), i just use a patch slightly dampened w/ hoppes 9, then a dry one to follow.
Slide i believe you know how to do extractor and fp channel (do not over lube, sorry thought the tutorials warned about overoiling the channel).
let it all sitt a day. Lightly reoil the rails and go shott the heck out of it.
if it gives you several hundred trouble free rounds then acts up again (or has a bunch more flakes) then we know that is the issue and will try to isolate it later.
EDIT: Clean mags too, and make sure your mags are marked in some way (i use silver nail polish i got from the wife, and 9mm mags are a,b,c, and .40 are 1,2,3,..)
the idea here is we want to try to get your gun as close to new as possible and see if it shoots good again (instead of doing one area/issue at a time). If not then you have something mechanically bad.
remove the action carrier from the frame (tutorial is under maintenance).
clean using some kind of foaming cleaner or blasting type cleaner and a brush (though a brush won't reach some areas).
LIGHTLY oil everything in action carrier.
clean poly frame (i believe idpa steyr says he uses a dish soap 8O ), i just use a patch slightly dampened w/ hoppes 9, then a dry one to follow.
Slide i believe you know how to do extractor and fp channel (do not over lube, sorry thought the tutorials warned about overoiling the channel).
let it all sitt a day. Lightly reoil the rails and go shott the heck out of it.
if it gives you several hundred trouble free rounds then acts up again (or has a bunch more flakes) then we know that is the issue and will try to isolate it later.
EDIT: Clean mags too, and make sure your mags are marked in some way (i use silver nail polish i got from the wife, and 9mm mags are a,b,c, and .40 are 1,2,3,..)
Joined
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188 Posts
Matches said:
It's now end of July and its been awhile since your last post about the FTE... how is it doing now? Got anymore problems other that FTEs of your M9? Let us hear em...
Well, I am becoming pro-active in attempting to solve these issues.
I just finished polishing the area covered in brass in the below photo. I also polished around the ejector area, etc...because I noticed a lot of brass build-up. It feels much smoother now and goes into battery with ease. I will test fire and see what happens.
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I just finished polishing the area covered in brass in the below photo. I also polished around the ejector area, etc...because I noticed a lot of brass build-up. It feels much smoother now and goes into battery with ease. I will test fire and see what happens.
All of my firearms are kept spotless. I use gun scrubber on the slide after cleaning, making sure to blow out the extractor area. Then, I go through with powder solvent in every area using a toothbrush. Then, I apply Hoppes No.9 plus teflon/rem.oil spray. They are overly clean.
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