Cleaning before first use?

As an aside, I have probably a dumb newbie question:

I understand it is accepted practice to always run the cleaning brush/pads one way only down the barrel, but is it the same as bullet travel or opposite, or does it really matter? I can't remember! I've been using opposite, but I can change that!

My practice has been to:

1) Disassemble the gun to it's four component parts (Slide, grip, barrel, spring)
2) Inspect them for any obvious cracking or breaking
3) Run the brass brush dry through the barrel opposite of bullet travel
4) Run small pads with (some, not soaking) Break Free applied through the barrel the same way, repeating, using new pads each time until there is no residue left on the pad.
(I've cut up a few t-shirts into small ~ 2" square pads which seem to work perfectly!)
5) Apply Break Free to other pads and wipe down all exposed surfaces in the receiver/grip assy, the slide, spring, etc. until no more residue is left.
6) Check that a thin film of Break Free is left on the surfaces of the gun, touching up where necessary.
7) Reassemble gun and cycle the action several times with trigger activated to ensure assembly was correct.
8) Reload magazine and put into mag well, ready for action (after racking the slide to load chamber)

Does this sound like a reasonable method? It's one I adhere to every time I shoot the gun. [It should be noted that between both guns I own (the other being a KelTec P11 9mm), I have never had a faulty function, no FTFs, no FTEs, nothing!]

Ok, back to your regularly scheduled program, I'm off to work, check back later!
Paul

#1:Cleaning? First handgun ever so no cleaning kit. Is there one particular kit/oils better than the other?

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My Answer:
Petroleum based lubrications (aka gun oils) have a tendency to collect dirt and grime. I have always used synthetic lubrication when cleaning my steyr. The more high tech lubrications like Tetra penetrate the metal surface and even if you wipe the pistol dry it will still have some lubrication. This works really well in the firing pin recess area where you want to very, very lightly dab some synthetic lube and wipe it dry. Whereas, if you cleaned the firing pin recess area with standard petroleum based lubrication it may be over lubed and cause you some serious problems (aka light strikes and no boom boom).

#2: Ammo? CCW blazer brass from what I've been reading but is there a velocity range that I need to stay around or...? Thanks for all the help!

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My Answer:
I mostly use CCW Blazer Brass in .165 FMJ (full metal jacket) for target practice. A long time ago I was in the same boat as you and did some research finding that the FBI did a study on .40 caliber ammunition and found that .165 gr. .40S&W was more reliable and accurate than .180 .40 S&W. For personal protection I use Speer Gold Dot .165 gr. JHP (jacket hollowpoint). I shoot at the range only from time to time using the Speer as it is expensive.

One Last Note:
Visit our Tutorials & Information section as there is an excellent cleaning tutorials complete with pictures and a VERY IMPORTANT Extractor removal and cleaning tutorial. As a rule of thumb I remove and clean out the Extractor every 200 rounds whether it needs it or not.

I clean the barrel from the breech end. I find it easier to get the patch in.

I also use various bore cleaners.
first is Hoppes
then I use shooters choice
then I'll use RB 17
followed by some JB bore paste
Last I use a synthetic called Prolix

After I use all of these I run some break free down the bore

The frame and slide get cleaned using brake parts cleaner and hoppes.

For lubricant I use shooters choice grease (synthetic) or militec on the barrel, locking block and rails
The frame interior I use break free on springs, sear and other moving parts.