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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so I dl the tut from the main page and did my best....problem is no one had rem spray....so I used breakfree CLP instead

1. Is CLP decent enough to substitute for Rem?
2. Can Hoppes #9 mess anything up?
3. Is it a big deal if I get hoppes in collateral areas around where the tut mentions?
4. Does CLP evaporate like it was mentioned the Rem does?
5. When using oil (only had breakfree) to lube, how much should be left? I pretty much put it on, spread it with my finger and then wiped away....but not all of it....did I leave too much?
6. How much is too much lube? When I think of lubing mechanical parts I think lots of excess but things seem to be different with guns?
7. How long does this stench stick around? I can freakin taste the Hoppes and CLP!!!
8. CLP keeps seeping out of places....did I over do the CLP?
9. How do you lube up the trigger? Can I over lube as there is no way I can remove excess with a cloth considering it's kind of hidden under that safety thing....

Thanks

Jerry
 

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Well the good news is that Steyrs like to be run wet. RemOil certainly isn't a requirement - CLP is good stuff, too. Brands of lube are as particular as brands of ammo - to each his own. I would say that you generally know you over lubed if you rack the slide a week later and it's still oozing out from the nooks and crannies. No worries, though - there is a learning curve to how much oil each gun likes and you'll get it right the more you do it. I prefer to clean and than drip a few drops of Militec-1 on a flat surface and spread it around with a paint brush. Seems to give a good, even distribution of oil that works great for me. I use a needle applicator to get oil in the various hard to reach trigger areas - I wouldn't worry too much about over-oiling there. Seems to me that over-oiling would most likely lead to issues only if you drench the slide (and particularly if copious amounts made it inside the slide - e.g. firing pin channel).
 

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Nothing wrong with Hoppes #9 or Break Free.
I swear by EEZOX. 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
The only real problem with over lubing (with oil) is that the extra oil tends to collect and hold dust, lint and debris.
Break Free, on the other hand, can damage the finish if left liberally aplied as it incorporates a solvent as well as lubricants.
EEZOX "Cleans wet and lubes dry" wipe off excess after cleaning and leave a very thin sheen of lube to soak in and dry. Let dry thoroughly before storing.
EEZOX is available from http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com

Try canned air (available from Wally World or the dollar store) to clear excess lube from the trigger assembly or firing pin channel.
 

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Haven't used CLP. I switched to RemOil, and for me it seemed to make a huge difference in performance, but to paraphrase what Syntax said, I think, 'whatever floats your boat' (i.e. to each his own) :wink:

And as Syntax said, be careful of lube getting into the firing pin channel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Firing pin channel??? Sorry for the stupid question but can someone post up a pic as I am worried that I may have lubed it....or at least CLP'd it...

Thanks

Jerry
 

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Not sure if it's the same part number on an M40 (I have an M9), but on the instruction manual diagram the firing pin is 43, so it's the channel that #43 goes into. This is not part of the normal field-stripping, but quite easy to do.

Problem is that if you get lube into that channel, then the pressure buildup caused by the lube (when you might actually think you're doing a good thing for your Steyr) can cause the firing pin not to operate correctly... and so you can get FTF's from the firing pin not striking correctly. I hope I'm stating this right.

Oh, and on new Steyr's that have been in storage for a long time, any gunk preservative (can't remember what it's called) needs to be cleaned from that channel also.

This problem has been documented several times here on the forum, and I've experienced it myself. Once cleaned, I've never have had a single misfire since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have to get home to check out the diagrams so I post back later but I do have one other question....


What cleaning products do I need to be weary of as I do not want to melt my tupperware???? Are the ones I am using okay....actually I checked the sites and CLP is fine but what about Hoppes #9?

Thanks

Jeryry
 

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I use Breakfree, but sparingly. When it is seeping out it is too much. You can wet a q-tip and keep good control of the amount (just be careful not to let the fuzzy stuff get all over.) Be careful with anything that is a strong solvent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dobry said:
Not sure if it's the same part number on an M40 (I have an M9), but on the instruction manual diagram the firing pin is 43, so it's the channel that #43 goes into. This is not part of the normal field-stripping, but quite easy to do...
AWWW mannn!!! I guess I was not paying enough attention as I looked at the second photo on page 7 of the guide and took that to mean oil up that spot....

How do I get it cleaned up?
 

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ChillyWilly said:
Dobry said:
Not sure if it's the same part number on an M40 (I have an M9), but on the instruction manual diagram the firing pin is 43, so it's the channel that #43 goes into. This is not part of the normal field-stripping, but quite easy to do...
AWWW mannn!!! I guess I was not paying enough attention as I looked at the second photo on page 7 of the guide and took that to mean oil up that spot....

How do I get it cleaned up?
I think there are a few posts that already outline the procedure. Check with the "search" feature on "firing pin". If you can't locate any instructions then post back here for help.

I personally used Hoppes to clean it out originally, with q-tips.

Any problems, again, post back here for help.
 
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