Caracal F Complete Disassembly

Discussion in 'Caracal C and F Series' started by Syntax360, Jul 21, 2011.

  1. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    This has been a project I have been putting off for some time. If you have been following this pistol, you know it has fewer parts than our beloved Steyrs or even Glocks; I have seen the Caracal schematic that came with my gun, but nothing really puts things into perspective quite like tearing the gun down and seeing it for yourself. I have gotten several requests for pictures that detail something beyond a field strip, so I hope this write-up will satisfy any lingering curiosities and perhaps assist other owners in future maintenance/upgrade procedures.

    For reference purposes, this is the breakdown supplied in the owners manual:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is a remarkably simple weapon, but I would recommend you do not attempt this unless you have access to some basic tools - at the very least, you will need a 3/32" and 1/8" punch, a hammer, and maybe a set of picks and a plastic punch to assist in pushing/tapping out the snug striker assembly. In lieu of a proper gun vise, a few blocks of wood and a Quick-Grip bar clamp come in handy for holding the slide and frame steady while driving out pins. The roll pins should probably be replaced with new upon reassembly. We will begin with the slide.

    Start by field-stripping the weapon and removing the barrel and guide rod assembly from the slide. There are three roll pins in the slide - two that retain

    the striker assembly (2a and 2b) and one that retains the extractor (6a):

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    Start by driving on the top roll pin that retains the extractor (6a) - it can be driven out with a 3/32" punch. Once removed, you should be able to wiggle the extractor (6) out of the slide, exposing the extractor spring (7) underneath.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Proceed to drive out the roll pin that is just in front of the rear site (2b) and then the pin that lies directly over extractor (2a). With all three pins removed, your striker assembly is ready to be removed from the slide - you can start wiggling/tapping the it from the top of the breech face. HOWEVER, the extractor spring is going to catch on the inside of the slide as it is removed - you will need to this piece as you are working the assembly out of the slide. When the spring gets hung up on the slide, use a pick to press it inward to allow clearance.

    The striker guide rod (10) and spring (9) are not contained inside the assembly - it is highly likely that these pieces will try to rocket away from you as soon as there is clearance. Be careful not to lose these parts. Once removed, you should have something that looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    *NOTE* I took this picture immediately upon disassembly, and I hadn't quite figured out the proper orientation of that spring and guide rod yet. I HAVE IT POSITIONED BACKWARDS.

    The guide rod is supposed to sit on the side of the channel that faces the breech face (as pictured in the factory literature), not backwards towards the rear sight (as incorrectly pictured).
     

  3. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    The striker spring guide rod (10) and spring (9) may be set aside, and the extractor spring (7) and firing pin safety (11) sit on the side of the assembly with no means of retention - they will likely fall right off if the assembly is tilted to the side. The striker (8) may now be removed - this is accomplished by sliding it upwards where the spring (9) and rod (10) used to be:

    [​IMG]

    Once finished, you should have something that looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    I snapped a few more close-ups of the individual components:

    Stripped Assembly (3)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    Extractor Spring (7)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Striker (8)

    [​IMG]

    I screwed up and should have gotten some better shots of the striker spring (9) and guide rod (10). The rod (10) itself has a flat on one side and the rest is round; the guide rod (10) faces forward towards the breech face, and the flat faces up against the top of the slide. If you make the same mistake I did and try to re-assemble it the way I pictured it a few posts above, you will never be able to get the rear roll pin (2b) back through the slide and the assembly. Do not make this frustrating mistake.

    Re-assembly is pretty self-explanatory - just reverse all the steps: re-insert the striker (8) into the carrier assembly (3), place the striker spring (9) against the back of the channel it rides in (3), and then force the guide rod (10) side back into the channel, paying careful attention to the orientation of that flat I described - it must be facing "up" so that it will contact the flat part of the slide. Place the firing pin safety (11) back onto the side of the assembly (3), and then place the extractor spring (7) back on top.

    The spring (9) may cooperate, depending on how you orient everything - it took me a couple of tries, but I got everything to "settle" just right without the spring (9) trying to launch itself out of its channel. Simply press the assembly back into position in the slide, again paying attention to the extractor spring (7) - it may require a little help with a pick to keep it from snagging on the slide. Once the assembly is in place, the extractor spring (7) will "click" back into position and the two roll pins (2a and 2b) on the side of the slide may be driven back into place to secure everything. The extractor (6) is pressed back into place and the roll pin (6a) may be tapped back in on top of the slide.


    This gun is incredibly simple - there really doesn't seem like much a guy could do to improve on what's there. The striker spring (9) could be changed out to get a lighter pull, but that might (read: would) impact reliability. Besides, my gun's pull measures less than 4 lbs. - some would argue that the Caracal is already too light (not I).

    That's it for the slide!
     
  6. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    Removal and disassembly of the fire control group is just as simple. Start by driving out the roll pin at the top-rear of the grip (5c), and then knock out the grip frame pin that runs through the frame just above the trigger guard (27):

    [​IMG]

    Once the gripe frame pin is removed, the take-down lever (25) and take-down lever spring (26) may be removed (this picture was taken out of sequence - your trigger assembly should still be in the frame):

    [​IMG]

    You should now be able to wiggle the trigger assembly from the frame; be mindful of the slide stop lever (14) and slide stop lever spring (15), as there is nothing that provides positive retention for these parts - they will fall off before you have a chance to get a good look at their orientation if you are not careful (just like the Steyr).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    The slide stop lever (14) and slide stop lever spring (15) can be removed from the side:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It looks as though there are only two contact surfaces that one should be sure to lubricate in this assembly (excluding the slide rails):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    To continue disassembly, remove the trigger bar spring (23) from the trigger unit (22):

    [​IMG]

    To facilitate removal of the trigger unit (22), knock out the trigger pin (28):

    [​IMG]

    There is one more piece that traps the trigger unit (22) - it is called the anvil unit (24), and it is retained in the assembly by two roll pins (24c).

    [​IMG]

    Both roll pins do not need to be removed - I simply knocked out the bottom pin, thus allowing the anvil unit (24) to pivot on the remaining roll pin (24c). Once you remove or "free-up" the anvil unit (24), the trigger unit (22) may be removed and will look something like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    If you want to truly tear this sucker all the way down, we will proceed to disassemble the trigger. Knock out the roll pin that runs through the trigger (undocumented in factory literature):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The trigger is three pieces - the polymer trigger, the polymer trigger safety, and a spring:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    All that is left at this point is the magazine catch and springs. The Caracal has an ambidextrous mag release, comprised of 3 pieces - 2 magazine catch springs (17) and the magazine catch (16):

    [​IMG]

    The trick to removing the magazine catch springs is to focus on one at a time; pressing the mag catch button will release tention on the opposite side spring. Once tension is released, use a pick to peel the spring over the retention grooves in the magazine catch button. The spring may now be removed from the frame by simply lifting it out. Repeat the procedure for the other side, and both springs will be removed and the magazine catch button may be completely pressed through either side of the frame.

    [​IMG]

    You now have a bunch of pieces and a naked frame:

    [​IMG]

    That's it! Your Caracal should now be completely stripped. If you made it this far, I do not believe a re-assembly tutorial is necessary - there really isn't much to the tear down, and the entire procedure is simply working backwards from here. Should anyone find themselves stuck on something, feel free to post about it and I will do my best to walk you through the obstacle.

    Any questions? Comments? Complaints?
     
  11. xthexheadx

    xthexheadx New Member

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    nicely done sir! very informative
     
  12. firewire

    firewire New Member

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    Please make this a sticky!
     
  13. Shooter

    Shooter Premium Member

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    And your opinion of the caracal?
     
  14. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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  15. ddleatherworks

    ddleatherworks New Member

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    Great job Syntax, I have seen this done once before but you by far done alot better explaining the details.
     
  16. ozy

    ozy New Member

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    great tutorial. but for us. with only 2 -d imagination, is there a video tutorial in the works?
    thanks again for posting this.
     
  17. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    No, I do not plan on making a video. I'm sure any Caracal owner with a camera and this tutorial could make one.
     
  18. rolltideocala

    rolltideocala New Member

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    thanks for this great tutorial
    while I have read great things about the light and smooth pull of the Caracal C trigger mine seems to be rough....while taking up the slack I feel 2 or 3 rough or scratchy places in the pull before it fires.
    What in the trigger mechanism can be polished or changed to eliminate this problem...I have a new spring set from Galloway Precision to install but do not think that will eliminate the roughness.
    thanks again for your tutorial and your reply
    Paul
     
  19. Talyn

    Talyn New Member

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    It's amazing the simplicity of this firearm.


    Did you find anything in there to polish or tweak?
     
  20. Syntax360

    Syntax360 Premium Member

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    I didn't even consider it during tear-down - the trigger on my Caracal F is just about my idea of perfection. I'm not a big fan of working on something just for the sake of doing it.