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A Proper Steyr Grip- Originally posted by IDPA Steyr

17615 Views 27 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  MicPop
Note: Edited to make this a sticky
Here is the grip I use while shooting. I transitioned to this grip 4 years ago after using a weaver grip for 25 years. It was a tough transition and took a lot of practice before it felt natural.

The grip is actually obtained at about stomach level, in front of the body.

Photo 1
The gun is placed in the soft portion of the web of the shooting hand. The web is placed high and as tight against the frame as possible.. This gets the bore of the gun low in the hand to allow the recoil pulse to be directed straight into the forearm. The reason recoil feels so low on the Steyr is the recoil pulse drives the gun lower into the hand instead of flipping the muzzle upward.

Photo 2
The firearm is aligned as straight with the shooting hand forearm as possible. This keeps the recoil pulse directed straight up the arm and prevents deflection of the gun.

Photo 3
The thumb of the support hand is pressed against the frame opposite the tip of the trigger finger. (This is extended along the frame at this point as the sights are not aligned on the target.)

Photo 4
The fingers of the support hand are rotated downward and wrapped tightly around the fingers of the shooting hand.

Photo 5
The proper grip, showing the support hand fingers wrapped around the shooting hand. (Don’t put the index finger of your support hand on the front of the trigger guard. It may look cool but accomplishes nothing.)

Photo 6
The proper grip showing the support hand thumb extending along the frame for control, and the thumb of the shooting hand resting on it to keep it high and tight to the back of the frame. Keep the tip of the thumb away from the slide release.

From this position, extend the gun toward the target, retaining a tight grip. This creates tension in your wrist, elbows, arm and shoulders that allow a complete “lock-out” of the shooting platform.

At this point, if you aren’t tired, try again because you don’t have it right. This grip takes a lot of effort and a lot of practice, but it works.

An unpaid model was used for this demonstration as I am left-handed and didn’t want anyone getting confused.

BTW – Don’t make fun of the way my gun looks…it still works very well!
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Great info.. and that there finish on the top of that barrel is exactly why i polished mine.. :)
recently i went to the range w/ a buddy from work, who hadn't shot in like almost a year. As i was packing up i told him to finish off the box of 9mm and for the last two magazines through his p239 i showed him this grip.


he's now dry firing at home w/ it and i fowarded the link to this thread to him.

oh and a sig p239 is almost identical in size sitting next to an S series, the steyr is howver about 40% wider as the 239 is single stack.
Hi, everyone,

With this grip, or any other grip, should you use the pad or first joint of your trigger finger to pull the trigger? Thanks,
tglahn17 said:
Hi, everyone,

With this grip, or any other grip, should you use the pad or first joint of your trigger finger to pull the trigger? Thanks,
Most instructors will tell you that you should be using the pad of your finger to pull the trigger.

Some people with longer fingers might have to use the joint just because that is their only option on a particular weapon.

Going shooting on Friday, will print this off and take it with me.

Hi, everyone,

I went to the range this weekend, and tried this grip for the first time. I saw instant results. Here's two 5-round groups at 21' with my M9A1 ... pg&.src=ph

Here's a 5-round group at 21' with a rented Ruger P345 ... pg&.src=ph

It'll take more range time to get totally comfortable with this grip. My shooting hand was so sore after about two and a half hours that I literally couldn't pull the trigger on my Steyr. But so far, me likey! Later,
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How do you plant your feet and position your body? I still can't get comfortable with my feet. ](*,) I have tried this grip a few times but am still all over the place.
xjrat, Try keeping your shoulders pretty much square to the target and do a very slight lead with your strong-side foot. The lead shouldn't be much, only about 4-6 inches. See if that works for you.
If you plant the way you would to box you will be pretty good (and have a natural hand-to-hand/knife/gun fighting stance if needs be).
Hi, xjrat,

I keep my feet in an isosceles stance. If your groups are loose, I recommend lots of dry firing. I've probably done ten times more dry fires than rounds through the barrel. You should also confirm whether or not you're flinching. Go to the range with a buddy and have him or her load a live or dummy round in your magazine. If you're flinching, you'll see it when you pull the trigger on a dummy round. I don't have a shooting buddy, so I tricked myself with my Ruger Blackhawk. I loaded a single live round, and spun the cylinder. Then I stepped through the cylinder. It was like Russian Roulette without the dangerous part. I could really see my flinch when I pulled the trigger on an empty chamber. Good luck,
I know everyone has their own variations of grip and foot placement (as well as finger position), so I'll weigh in too. Have tried the thumbs along the frame, but my groups opened up a little instead of shrinking. Plus side, they didn't pull to one side or the other either. Wound up using both thumbs-down with trigger just past my last knuckle. Usually lead with my left foot (right-handed), but can get very good groups with right foot forward- think it's from the added pulling pressure by my left hand. Last time out was 75% in 3inches at 15 yards. Need to get rid of my flinch once and for all, and stop being so lazy on the sights! Don't know what other people's experience is, but I have to make small changes to grip and finger placement every time I handle a different gun.
I don't know why but with a revolver I have increadable groups. 1 1/2" at 10yrds with a 44mag and a 357mag even 8-O I put 3 rounds through the same hole w/ 44mag (no I didn't just make one hole and then shoot away from the paper)... But I get an auto loader and the guy on the paper looks like he has chicken pox! :x I do know I flinch on slow fire on rapid I don't as much. I will say I am still getting used to this m40-a1 as I only have 300 rounds through, and it has been about 7 yrs since last shooting. I just don't get the revolver vs. auto loader, on my last trip to the rage :?
With groups like that it's just a matter of time before you hit it with your m40. Are those revolver groups DA or SA? I got OK with my revolver - personal best 4in at 20 yrds with 2in .38. But can't do that consistantly. Was able to beat the flinch by putting a spent cartridge in the cylinder and giving it a spin before shooting. Couldn't find dummy rounds locally for my M9 so I made one from a spent caseing and a length of hardwood dowel sanded down. Haven't tried it yet. I too flinch a lot less on rapid fire.
I'm a convert! After reading all the good press associated with this grip I decided to attempt a coversion once more. Stuck with it for three trips to the range and lots of dry practice at home. It's paying off. Last time out shot the center out of the paper big enough to pass a can of beer thru at 15yrds with about 50 rds. Only two out of 50 landed out side of a 4in group. That's exceptional for me. Am adopting that grip and expect consistancy to continue to improve. The last piece of the puzzle for me was good pressure with my stong hand thumb. Thanks for the post!
Not seeing the pics

Excellent post. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.

I'm not seeing the pics.

Are they someplace else that I might?

Hi all,
Anyway you can post this again with the pics. Or can you pm me where the pics are.
I as well can't see the pics... I would love to find them!
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