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.22 LR questions, price check, ect....

2089 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Shooter
I found an old used Ruger mKII at a shop the other day. It's the older model, it looks just like this one, with the mag release at the butt of the grip, old style grip panels, and it wasn't tapped for a scope mount. It did come with four mags and I'd say it's at about 92% give or take a little. They wanted $250 for it, I was thinking about offering them $200 for it some time next week. Is the $250 a fair price? Also I've heard Rugers are a PITA to break down, how true is that and what's the difference between breaking down a Mk II and a Buckmark (which is my first choice really)? Also I've seen some picks posted of some Mk II with red dots that have scope mount that lock around the barrel. Where can those be found and for how much. The only ones I can find online are the rails the screw into the top of the gun. Are the older Ruger mk II any better/worse than the new ones? Should I just save the $100 and go with a new Buckmark, seeing as I can't find any good used ones?
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I dont know much about Ruger's but the folks over at rimfirecentral (http://www.rimfirecentral.com) can probably help you out.

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Or even the rimfire club on GT.
I do know ruger Mk2's are prefered over the new Mk 3's.
I know Sturm Ruger Inc started with one product, a .22, and did them so well they are the firearm giants they are now.
The quality of Ruger's 22's is excellent....very good steel.....don't know of the newest models. Also look at the Beretta, it is a near perfect copy of the Colt (woodsman?).....and you can modify it to a carbine config...lots of fun...........Assembly of Ruger's a bear!! you can get a modifier kit to make it easier, but I've never used one.......
$250 is okay for that gun. Not terrible and not a great price either. You can see that nobody bid on it on GB. I was in the market for a Ruger a couple months ago. I had some familiarity with MkII and MkIII versions and I went with a MkII. I got a model KMK678GC (Govt. Target Comp.) that was lightly used, I'd say it was 97-98%, for $300. Not a truly incredible price for that gun, but quite a bit less than the equivalent model in MkIII form. The 678GC is, I'm pretty sure, the only MkII that came factory drilled for a scope mount, whereas many of the new MkIII models are drilled. If the pistol you decide on isn't factory drilled, you can get a SoLow mount that clamps on. They go for about $40 IIRC, go to http://www.solow.com. Another option would be to have a gunsmith do the drilling for you.

As for the MkII versus MkIII, the big differences are the loaded chamber indicator and magazine disconnect. I have read internet rumor of the LCI possibly causing an unintentional discharge, although I have not read any first hand accounts from anybody who experienced this. I don't like the LCI simply because it's one more part than is necessary for the function of the gun, but I could live with it if I had to.

The mag disconnect on the MkIII makes it so you can't pull the trigger unless there's a mag in the gun. This primarily comes into play during reassembly, because at one point you'll have to pull the trigger to get the hammer and hammer spur in the proper orientation before trying to insert the mainspring housing. For somebody new to these Rugers, the first couple times you reassemble will be fun enough without having to worry whether there's a mag in the gun or not! The main thing that gets people with the reassembly, whether it's MkII or MkIII, is making sure the little hammer spur is properly aligned before you reinsert the MSH. Once you get this, it's a piece of cake. I don't really like the LCI and mag disconnect, but I wouldn't let them be deal breakers if I found a screaming price on a MkIII. Likewise, some folks selling well-used MkIIs have inflated opinions of what their pistols are worth because they lack these features. Considering there are still some NIB MkIIs floating around, I've seen some pretty outlandish prices (mostly at gun shows).

BTW, dis- and re-assembly of a II or III will require a small plastic mallet to tap the barrel off of the frame. Despite what you may see online, you shouldn't whack the muzzle crown to reattach the barrel; you should place the muzzle on a cushioned surface and do your tapping on the back side of the frame instead.

I wasn't trying to pimp the 678GC as the be-all end-all either. Some people find the 6 7/8" barrel too front-heavy. A lot of guys I know shoot the KMK512 (5 1/2" barrel). Many also prefer the 22/45, which as previously mentioned, has a different grip angle. This was to make it feel more like the grip angle on 1911 .45s that so many are accustomed to shooting, hence the 22/45 model name.

Check out the forum at http://www.markii.org
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Flashpoint said:
I found an old used Ruger mKII at a shop the other day. It's the older model, it looks just like this one, with the mag release at the butt of the grip, old style grip panels, and it wasn't tapped for a scope mount. It did come with four mags and I'd say it's at about 92% give or take a little. They wanted $250 for it, I was thinking about offering them $200 for it some time next week. Is the $250 a fair price? Also I've heard Rugers are a PITA to break down, how true is that and what's the difference between breaking down a Mk II and a Buckmark (which is my first choice really)? Also I've seen some picks posted of some Mk II with red dots that have scope mount that lock around the barrel. Where can those be found and for how much. The only ones I can find online are the rails the screw into the top of the gun. Are the older Ruger mk II any better/worse than the new ones? Should I just save the $100 and go with a new Buckmark, seeing as I can't find any good used ones?
--------------THE OLD STYLE RUGER MARK111 HAVE THE HEEL RELEASE ON THE BOTTOM OF PISTOL GRIP WHICH ISN'T ALL THAT BAD. SO FAR AS SCOPES AND AIMPOINTS GOES B-SQUARE MAKES SEVERAL MOUNTS. ONE GOES WHERE THE REAR SIDE DOVETAIL AND THEN CONNECTS AROUND THE BARREL IN FRONT OF THE CHLAMBER, ANOTHER WHICH IS MORE SOLID IS THE ONE THAT SCREWS INTO THE WHERE THE REAR SIGHT GOES AND SCREWS INTO THE HOLES WHEN YOU REMOVE THE FRONT SIGHT. I HAVE A WEAVER SCOPE ON MY RUGER MK III USING THE B-SQUARE AND CAN HIT SMALL TARGETS ALL DAY LONG AT A LITTLE OVER 100 YARDS. THE BUCKMARK IS A GOOD GUN BUT I DON'T THINK IT WOULD BE ANY MOR ACCURATE THAT THE RUGER. SO FAR AS TAKE DOWN A RUGER ALL YOU DO IS PULL OUT THE TAKE DOWN LATCH ON THE BACK OF THE GRIP AND PULL DOWN AND OUT. THE BOLT WILL THEN PULL OUT OF THE BACK OF THE RECEIVER, THEN YOU BUMP THE BACK OF THE RECEIVER AND IT WILL MOVE FORWARD AND SEPARATE FROM THE GRIP. THE ONLY TROUBLE IS PUTTING THE TAKE DOWN LATCH BACK IN THE GRIP WITH THE BOLT STOP COMING OUT THE HOLE IN THE TOP OF THE RECEIVER. ONCE YOU DONE IT SEVERAL TIMES IT NO LONGER A PROBLEM. SO FAR AS FINDING SCOPE MOUNTS FOR THE OLDER RUGER YOU CAN ORDER THEM FROM (MIDWAY). YOU ASKED ABOUT THE PRICE BEING HIGH. CHECK OUT WHAT THEY ARE ASKING FOR THEM ON GUN BROKERS. ALSO IF THE BIRD ON THE GRIPS ARE COLORED RED YOU'VE GOT A COLLECTORS ITEM WORTH MEGA BUCKS.
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utccop.......your yelling............
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